1995 Ermitage Cuvee Cathelin

When I arrived at 6:00 p.m., September 11, 2001, at Domaine Chave, I found Chave in tears and his family distraught. I had heard about the attacks on the World Trade Center, but not the subsequent collapse of both towers. Gerard Chave knows all about suicidal bombers, having served in the French military during the Algerian revolution. It took a long time to gather sufficient focus to do my tastings. However, the brilliant wines that unfolded in the cellars were, at least for several hours, a much needed antidote for pushing to the back of my mind the horror of 9-11-01. Importers: Langdon Shiverick, Cleveland OH; tel. (216) 861-6800 and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Now 30 years old, the 1995 Ermitage Cuvée Cathelin has a swarthy nose with raspberry, briar, juniper and light cola scents, well defined if missing the bucolic charm of the ’91. The palate is velvety smooth with hints of strawberry pastille and eucalyptus. The Cathelin is supremely well balanced and polished, sporting impressive weight and density on the glossy finish. That said, I asked myself whether it really has the profundity you find in Chave’s finest creations. Still, it was a privilege to drink such a rare Rhône. Based on this showing, the 1995 deserves further time in bottle.

Dark ruby-red. Brooding but vibrant aromas of cassis, blackberry, licorice and spice. Extremely dense and concentrated, with urgent blackcurrant and pepper flavors complicated by a spicy oak component. Despite its supple texture, this has shut down since the last time I sampled it and is likely to call for extended patience.