2002 Morey St Denis 1er Cru

The medium-bodied 2002 Morey-St.-Denis Les Loups (of which 35-40% is declassified fruit from the Clos des Lambrays) exhibits a nose of toasted oak and blackberries. Loads of black fruits interspersed with mocha envelop this medium-bodied wine’s ripe tannin. It is concentrated, well-fashioned, balance, and seamless. Anticipated maturity: now-2011. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

(Brouin had finished the final selection a week prior to my visit) Good medium red. Aromatic nose combines raspberry, leather, game, smoked meat and minerals, plus a raw cassis suggestion of reduction. Firmer and more structured than the village cuvee, with more apparent acidity. Less round and sweet today, but longer and more subtle. The premier cru is often less impressive than the village wine at this stage, notes Brouin.

Light red. Headily scented. – even a bit full and exaggerated on the nose. Attention-grabbing. Jewelly. Slightly medicinal nose. Rich and round – not unlike Arlot style, but with more acidity and freshness. Rich with a hint of cassis. Surprisingly delicate in the mouth. Quite charming, but not the most distinctive offering from Lambrays. Sweet, verging on jammy, but just not. Massively ripe and almost showy, and why not?! Great smooth texture with no sacrifice of tannins. Round. Four consistent notes. (JR)