2004 Cote Rotie

The floral, exotic 2004 Cote Rotie is one of the better examples I tasted in this vintage (the crop was gigantic). Its deep ruby color is followed by copious amounts of sweet raspberry fruit intermixed with pepper, herb, and toasty new oak notes. Drink it over the next 8-10 years. Proprietor Louis Barruol is one of the two finest producers of Gigondas (his wines rival those of Yves Gras’ Santa Duc), and also has a burgeoning negociant operation dedicated to making tasty wines. Readers should note that the estate wines are bottled under the Chateau Saint-Cosme label, and the negociant wines, made from purchased wines or grapes, are simply called Saint-Cosme. A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; (561) 998-0039; Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799; Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901; Associated Wine Distributors, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-8048; and Vintage ‘59 Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218

Ruby-red color. Wild, potent scents of tangy dark berries, cherry, mint, violet pastille and grilled, peppery meat; this delivers real wine-class Cote-Rotie aromatics. Spicy and rich on the palate, with very sweet blackberry and cherry cola flavors accented by fruity black pepper and mocha. Finishes rich, intense and long, with firm but well-buffered tannins.