2007 Cote Rotie

As with most producers’ 2007 Cote Rotie, this cuvee is difficult to judge. It was a challenging year with abundant hail damage, and horrible weather in August, but September turned things around for the better producers. This offering, which was aged in a combination of small barrels and demi-muids, exhibits a dark ruby/purple-tinged color, aromas of ground pepper and green vegetables, decent, medium-bodied, concentrated flavors, but little ripeness or depth. (Not yet released) It seems to me that Jamet’s traditional Cote Roties, which I adored in vintages such as 1985, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, and 1999, have not been up to snuff over recent years. It is difficult to understand why as this has always been one of the more reliable producers in Cote Rotie. They do have a mind-bending 25 separate parcels (18 acres) spread over Cote Rotie, with some terrific sites, but the wines have become increasingly lean and sinewy as well as herbaceous and vegetal. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

From Tartaras, Truchet and Bonniviere: Intensely floral, showing spicy violet and rose qualities along with fresh red berries and black pepper. From Gerine and Landonne: Red and dark berries on the nose. Deeper dark berries and cherry on the palate, with firm tannins adding grip and cracked pepper lending energy. From Chavaroche and Fongeant: Wild perfume of botanical herbs, cherry skin, tobacco and smoked meat. "This component gives the animal quality to the wine," Jamet said. From Lancement and Le Plomb: Rich and smoky, with deep cherry and cassis flavors and gentle tannins. From Mornachon: Exotic cherry-cola, coconut and baking spices on the nose. Fleshy and sweet, with deep dark fruit flavors and good back-end sweetness. A demi-muid from Mornachon: Explosively perfumed bouquet of ripe red berries, incense and potpourri. Luscious and concentrated, with sweet red and dark berry flavors and an exotic floral pastille quality. From Moutonnes, Cote Baudin and Leyat: Intensely smoky nose offers a complex set of red fruit and floral aromas and a strong note of graphite. Impressively pure and sweet, with strong raspberry and kirsch flavors and gentle tannins. A demi-muid, from Lancement and Le Plomb: Strikingly perfumed bouquet of red berries, violet, rose and black pepper. Juicy, finely etched raspberry and wild strawberry flavors boast excellent depth and very good clarity. The final wine should be graceful and impressively complex, with vivid red fruit flavors and supple texture.

As with most producers’ 2007 Cote Rotie, this cuvee is difficult to judge. It was a challenging year with abundant hail damage, and horrible weather in August, but September turned things around for the better producers. This offering, which was aged in a combination of small barrels and demi-muids, exhibits a dark ruby/purple-tinged color, aromas of ground pepper and green vegetables, decent, medium-bodied, concentrated flavors, but little ripeness or depth. Apr 2009, www.robertparker.com