2007 Riesling Alte Reben

Where the van Volxem “Riesling Schiefer” and “Riesling Saar” bottlings are vinified entirely in tank, the 2007 Riesling Alte Reben – sourced from truly ancient vines in a wide array of sites – is vinified in cask , as are all of the estate’s site-specific bottlings. Lemon zest and orange blossom mingle in the nose with aromas of Normandy cider, characteristics paralleled on the palate accompanied by lees and CO2 residues of fermentation. Piquant grapefruit rind, toasted nuts, and peach kernel, along with tart plum skin give this long-finishing wine a wonderful sense of invigoration. Feel free to experiment with it at table over at least the next 6-7 years. Admittedly, some bottlings from earlier in the decade lost their freshness sooner than I had anticipated, but the evolution of the van Volxem style has been such that I am optimistic – while remaining honestly aware of the extent to which these wines are moving targets when it comes to pinning-down developmental potential. Except for three that don’t taste dry, this year’s van Volxem bottlings weigh in at between 11.5% and 12% alcohol, and range between 5 and 18 grams of residual sugar (none however labeled “trocken,” in keeping not only with with proprietor Roman Niewodniczanski’s penchant for judicious residual sugar, but also his admirable attempt to de-emphasize that term). Predictably, too, no fining of any sort was performed on the musts. The top wines were as usual here not bottled until late summer. For details on the house style and Niewodniczanski’s ambitions, please consult earlier reports, notably that in issue 163. Importers include Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312 and Acid Inc Selections, New York, NY; tel. (817) 687 4848