1996 Bollinger R.D. (Disgorged 2007)

Disgorged as long ago as 2007. And a dosage described as ‘très faible’ (very weak). Pale amber. Very lively bead but definitely more than fully mature – a Michael Broadbent sort of champagne ( le goût anglais )? By now it tastes bone dry as the fruit has started to dry out. Lots of acidity. There was fruit when it was served but this bottle dried out a bit in the glass. It was still recognisably Bollinger, though, with its weight and oak influence. (JR)

Disgorged in 2013, this bottle of Bollinger's 1996 Extra-Brut R. D. vindicates the house's decision to harvest late in this high-acid vintage, as even though the 1996 has a notably low pH of 2.93, the wine also possesses the maturity of fruit to balance it. Bursting with aromas of golden orchard fruit, crème brûlée, espresso roast, spices, warm bread, smoke and honeycomb, with time in the glass hints of dried fruits and marmalade emerge. On the palate, it's full-bodied, layered and vinous, with a textural attack and an ample core of fruit that's complemented by a pearly mousse, concluding with a long, saline, bone-dry finish. This is the best bottle of the 1996 R. D. I've ever encountered.

The 1996 R.D. (2012 disgorgement) is in a gorgeous spot right now. A stunning set of aromas and flavors have developed in bottle, making the 1996 a real treat to taste and drink at this stage. Scents of coffee, hazelnut, honey, dried flowers, menthol and candied orange peel all lift from the glass. Mature and yet also quite fresh, with terrific nuance, the 1996 R.D. is a terrific example of the timeless beauty that only Champagne can deliver. Disgorged: 2012.