2007 Rudesheimer Berg Roseneck Spatlese

Leitz's 2007 Rudesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Spatlese (incorporating the dimple-like, quartzite-rich original core Roseneck vineyard) offers an addictive aromatic intensity and purity of peach, gardenia, kirsch, almond extract, and rowan that I could inhale blissfully and indefinitely. These essences seem to waft cloud-like over the palate, precipitating the proverbial juicy, honeyed golden droplets onto a creamy, vanilla-tinged peach and yellow plum. Hints of nutmeg and salt add to the all night dream-like finish of this amazing, seemingly gravity-defying wine. -I want to emphasize the contrasts between vineyards,- explains Leitz. -In order to reinforce the vineyard character, for Roseneck I selected only totally healthy grapes and whole-cluster pressed.- (That's it?) Plan to follow this marvel for at least 20 years. Leitz began picking already on September 20, a day earlier than in 2006, but he is the first to admit that after the penury of its predecessor, the higher yields of vintage 2007 were welcome, and to admit as well, that top quality was achieved at the high-volume end of his portfolio only thanks to the aberently long ripening season. (For notes on Leitz's least-expensive, highest-volume, and highly-successful 2007 wines, consult issue 178.) -We were the first to pick and the last, too,- he insists. -I place great importance on that. As far as I'm concerned it's a great reward of global warming that we don't have to wait, like we used to, until October 10 to start harvesting, knowing that you probably had to get finished within 20 days. The climate has helped us to be able to play with the dates of picking- for any given parcel or to essay any given style. Speaking of style, Leitz was phenomenally successful this year in both dry and sweet formats, but essayed just two nobly sweet wines. The fate of an Auslese from the Berg Roseneck with which he expressed dissatisfaction had not yet been determined when I last visited, and a December 6 -Nikolauswein- from the Klosterlay (-we were planning to make Eiswein but lost our nerve,- comments Leitz) was still fermenting. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300