1998 The Armagh Shiraz

The blockbuster 1998 Shiraz The Armagh exhibits a murky plum/garnet/purple color in addition to a big, sweet nose of black fruits, earth, pepper, and spice. It reveals more tannin than the 1999 or 2000, in addition to all the concentration, force, and viscosity of the 1999. The 1998 possesses a more rugged finish, but it is, overall, a wine of greater depth and dimension. While not as velvety-textured as either of its younger siblings, it is loaded with potential. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2016. The high octane Shiraz cuvee called The Armagh is one of the finest examples from Clare Valley, as well as South Australia. Rich and dense, it routinely hits 14.5-15% alcohol. Importer: Negociants, USA, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-0993

Opaque ruby to the rim. Knockout superripe nose combines roasted blackberry, violet, licorice, maple syrup and peat; developed an almost port-like kirsch note with aeration. Thick, pliant and superconcentrated, but with a sappy impression of extract giving the amazingly generous dark berry, violet and spice flavors great clarity and three-dimensional texture. Tannins are big but thoroughly ripe, and the wine fruit, spice and meat flavors really explode on the finish. A great expression of shiraz.

The weighty 1998 Shiraz The Armagh+P15 is a wine of the times, with decadent although developed aromas of chocolate, blackberry and dried fruits. Overall, the feel is heavy, soft and lacking in shape, but it will hold on for a little while longer.