2007 Saar Riesling

Representing Niewodniczanski’s largest bottling – from contract fruit of 30 and more year old vines throughout the Saar – his 2007 Riesling Saar is more piquantly cyanic and nutty; more salt- and stone-inflected, and more lively and juicy than the already fine corresponding “Riesling Schiefer.” Apple, yellow plum, cherry, and herbs mingle in the nose and on a subtly creamy yet minerally active and refreshing palate, finishing with both fascinating nuance and personality, and formidable length for a generic bottling. I would expect this excellent value to merit following for at least 3-4 years. Except for three that don’t taste dry, this year’s van Volxem bottlings weigh in at between 11.5% and 12% alcohol, and range between 5 and 18 grams of residual sugar (none however labeled “trocken,” in keeping not only with with proprietor Roman Niewodniczanski’s penchant for judicious residual sugar, but also his admirable attempt to de-emphasize that term). Predictably, too, no fining of any sort was performed on the musts. The top wines were as usual here not bottled until late summer. For details on the house style and Niewodniczanski’s ambitions, please consult earlier reports, notably that in issue 163. Importers include Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312 and Acid Inc Selections, New York, NY; tel. (817) 687 4848