1996 Mazis Chambertin

This ruby-colored wine displays a tight nose of kirsch, black cherries, and rosemary, followed by a medium-to-full-bodied, masculine, structured, and unyielding personality. Flavors of blackberries, minerals, and stones are found in this firm, velvety-textured, and persistent wine. Anticipated maturity: 1999-2006. As far as the 1996 vintage is concerned, Rousseau's comments were bluntly candid - "the North wind is concentration. It saves a harvest, prevents rot, concentrates color and sugar, concentrates everything we want. 1996 is better than 1990, it may be too early to say, but there, I said it." With that, Rousseau picked up one of the tastevins hanging on the wall (these are the small, wide, shallow, and traditional silver utensils used for tasting. As far as I know he is the only Burgundian who continues to use them on a regular basis), and the tasting began. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel (212) 355-0700.

Moderately saturated medium-red. Wilder, more liqueur-like aromas complicated by notes of herbs, leather and game. More reticent in the mouth yet more textured. Offers attractive sweetness in a gentle style. A bit firmer and longer on the finish, but not especially concentrated.