1950 Rivesaltes

Bottled after 50-plus years in foudre, the 1950 Rivesaltes still has some ruby inflections to its bricking hue. Give it a little time in a decanter, not for sediment but to allow a bit of funk to blow off. You'll be rewarded by notions of rancio, maple walnuts and candied orange zest. Not that rich, weighty or sweet, it's a complex, elegant version of a style that's nearly extinct. Yet where else in the world can you find a delicious wine to celebrate a 70th birthday or an anniversary for only $175 (for a full bottle). Sip it on its own or with cheese.