2008 Norheimer Dellchen Grosses Gewachs

Lime and orange with a greenhouse-like meld of flowers and foliage in the nose of Donnhoff's 2008 Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Grosses Gewachs lead to a cool, refreshing, and restrained yet substantial and glycerin-rich palate that reflects the character of the aromas in its herbs and fresh citrus. Citrus oils, cherry pit add piquancy while saline, carnal, and faintly, nobly fungal notes add depth and intrigue. This positively tugs at your salivary glands even as it makes me wonder - as I more often do of Burgundian Pinot Noir - that such a thing could come from grapes. It will not only permit but will demand serious attention over the next 7-10 years. Incidentally, the years- entire crop from Dellchen went into this one wine. It was back to the roots this year, announced a beaming Helmut Donnhoff when I arrived to taste his 2008s. He harvested in the last week of October and first half of November during which time he characterized the weather as cool and stable. I can guarantee you, he added, that we didn't for a single day have muddy boots. Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300