2009 Fleurie Grande Cuvee La Roche Muriers

Despite what the term “grande cuvee” on its label might suggest, Villa Ponciago’s 2009 Fleurie Grande Cuvee La Roche Muriers originates with two parcels at different altitudes in a single, elongated, east-facing lieu-dit of that name. Aromas of lightly-cooked blackberry and pomegranate, smoked meat and violets soar from the glass and establish the themes for palate performance whose saliva-inducing salinity and sense of brightness and lift set it impressively apart from the already excellent corresponding La Reserve bottling. There is a fascinating interweaving of carnal, berry, floral, and mineral notes to this Fleurie’s savory finish. I would not be at all surprised if this proved worth following for half a dozen years, perhaps longer. The Henriot family acquired the Chateau de Poncie with its 120 vineyard acres (encompassing 214 parcels!) in 2008, but the first commercial releases came last year from the 2009 vintage, and labeled with an allusion to the alleged name of this property in late Roman times (though it began its known life as a wine estate when the Abbey of Cluny was granted it in 949). Given the evolution of Bouchard Pere et Fils and William Fevre under Henriot ownership – not to mention the fact that this estate incorporates some of the traditionally highest-rated vineyard sites in Beaujolais – great expectations will be riding on these wines, and the early results are already impressive. The new team – led by Thomas Henriot and cellarmaster Frederic Weber – are vinifying in an essentially Burgundian fashion, aging the wines in older barriques and a few new demi-muids. Since – due to my own negligence – I did not visit these cellars, I missed out on tasting one of the 2010s that had not yet been bottled as of this summer. Importer: Henriot, Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6706

Dark and peppery. Fine dark fruit, well balanced by a tight but not oppressive structure. Still has lovely fragrace. Supple, lively and energetic. (JH)