2003 Lirac Clos de Sixte

Slightly plumper and fatter than the 2004 is the 2003 Lirac Clos de Sixte. This is a soft, round, plump wine with a dense ruby/plum/purple color and plenty of black cherry and cassis fruit as well as some smoke and earth, but it is pure and delicious if not as complex and delineated as the potentially superior 2004. Drink the 2003 over the next 4-5 years. For the last 7-8 years, this has been one of the best-run estates in Chateauneuf du Pape. Alain Jaume and his two capable sons, Sebastien and Christophe, continue to propel Domaine Grand Veneur into the upper echelon of quality. They also offer an impressively well-made negociant line of wines (under the name Alain Jaume). The hallmarks of the Grand Veneur wines include their extraordinary purity of flavor and impeccable balance. Moreover, they have kept prices remarkably fair. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228

The first vintage of the Jaumes’ new Lirac estate could hardly be more flattering to taste. So round and sweet, it has no edges at all – just slides and slithers across the palate. (JR)