2004 Douro Red Reserva

The 2004 Reserva is revisited this issue as part of the vertical presented. This is a wine that has come along beautifully. Right on the cusp now, it shows mature notes, yet it is still reasonably fresh, vibrant and powerful. Even more impressive as it airs, for its combination of finesse and power, it becomes quite beautiful. This seems right on track, about where I hoped it would be. It is beautiful to drink now, but not quite at peak. It should continue to improve for a few years and will likely hold for another decade. I do like to be conservative in such things. It may well do better.

Old-vine field blend. 17 months in French oak. Dark ruby with a very slight brick note at the rim. Minerally and dark fruited, a hint of cedar, refined and restrained rather than sumptuous on the nose. Very discreet but with a sense of promise. Silky, dry and elegant on the palate. Still plenty of primary fruit and a long way to go. Surprisingly little tertiary character. Slightly bitter finish brings it down. (JH)