2009 Hermitage

From Peleat: Drop-dead, highly aromatic bouquet of red berries, incense and potpourri, with concentrated spiciness. From Beaume: Deeper and riper (15.5% alcohol, according to Chave), with intense cassis and blueberry character and hints of licorice and bitter chocolate. From L'Ermite: Heady aromas of red and dark berry preserves, licorice and violet, with a strong note of fruitcake. From Meal: Mineral-driven dark berry and cherry aromas and flavors, with silky tannins that gain strength with air. Really expands on the back end. From La Mortine, in L'Hermite: Powerful, pungent scents of dried red fruits, cherry-cola and licorice. More floral with air. Finishes with gentle grip and dusty minerality. From Bessards, a granite and clay parcel: Distinctly smoky and rich, offering deep blackberry and bitter cherry flavors that become sweeter with air. From Bessards, all granite: Sexy red fruits and minerals on the spicy, perfumed nose. Sweet and penetrating, repeating the red fruit note emphatically. Chave says that this might be the base for Cuvee Cathelin if it develops on the trajectory he anticipates. The final 2009 wine should be a lively, precise and attractively floral-accented wine, with excellent fruit intensity and strong minerality.

Tasted in four components that were to be blended at the end of November, 2011: #1: Deep cherry and dark berries on the nose and palate, with slow-mounting spiciness and serious finishing cling and power. #2: Wilder and more pungent, offering intense floral-accented red and dark berry qualities and notes of olive and candied licorice. This is mostly Meal, according to Chave. #3: Deep, smoky and aromatic, displaying an array of dark berry and spice qualities and a strong potpourri note. Juicy and focused on the finish, with the dark fruit note repeating. #4: Stunning aromas of violet, rose, black raspberry and cola, with a blast of Asian spices on the back. Juicy, mineral-driven and pure, with excellent finishing clarity and lingering sweetness. This should be a stunner. (JR)

The greatest wines Chave has produced since 2003 are the two cuvees of 2009 Hermitage. The 2009 Hermitage exhibits a black/purple color along with a sumptuous nose of roasted meats, ground pepper, black currants, blackberry jam, and subtle smoke and licorice. The extraordinary bouquet is followed by a wine of extravagant intensity as well as tremendous focus and precision. While not as powerful as the blockbuster 2003, the amazing 2009 may turn out to be a modern day version of their magnificent 1990 (which is drinking incredibly well at present). Anyone who loves Hermitage and has a cold cellar should be lining up to get a few bottles of this beauty. Adding to their acreage in St.-Joseph, the Chaves purchased the famous Clos Florentin Vineyard a few years ago. I suspect they will make a single vineyard wine from this site in the future. Importer: Langdon-Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900