2009 Cote Rotie Les Grandes Places

Saturated ruby. Black and blue fruits on the pungent, deeply pitched nose, along with complicating suggestions of licorice, black tea and mocha. Broad, palate-coating cassis and boysenberry flavors display a chewy texture and pick up a peppery quality on the back half. Shows a bright mineral note on the clinging finish.

In most vintages, Gerin’s finest cuvee comes from the steep slopes in the northern sector of Cote Rotie. His full-bodied, powerful, rich 2009 Cote Rotie Les Grandes Places reveals broodingly backward blackberry, cassis, smoky, meaty notes intermixed with hints of graphite and charcoal/burning embers. With abundant sweet tannin, this fleshy, full 2009 will be at its finest between 2015-2030. As have most conscientious producers, Gerin has turned in an impressive performance with his four cuvees of 2009 Cote Rotie. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Opaque ruby. Ripe, smoky aromas of blackcurrant and boysenberry preserves and cherry-cola, with complicating notes of licorice and dark chocolate. Broad and dense on the palate, offering chewy dark berry compote flavors and a slow-building floral pastille quality. Distinctly rich but in no way ungainly; in fact, this is surprisingly lively for its heft. Finishes supple and sweet, with a persistent licorice note and a whiplash of smoky minerals.