2005 Gevrey Chambertin Champs Chenys

Cinnamon, ginger, chalk dust, bitter chocolate, sour cherry and plum inform the clear, cool-fruited yet satisfyingly ripe and strikingly gripping finish of this beauty, the finest Marsannay of my acquaintance. The 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Champs-Chenys (from largely old vines below Charmes Chambertin) smells of black raspberry distillate, toasted almonds, and maraschino, is quite creamy on the palate, and persists with a strikingly intense, sorbet-like expression of bitter-sweet black raspberry along with stony minerality. Philippe Roty and his brother have matters well in hand and are on their way to bottling (as always here, unfiltered) a superb collection of 2005s. That said, this won’t even begin happening until late Spring and some wines may not be bottled until year’s end. (Wines followed above by the initials P.R. are from Philippe’s vines and will be labeled with his name.) Prolonged skin contact and gentle but relentless extraction are the practice here, and in 2005 that has made for Pinots of almost shockingly deep color, abundant and firm but fine tannins, and terrific overall intensity. Also recommended: 2005 Marsannay (85-86+?). Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173.

Ruby-red. Reduced, primary nose suggests blackberry and meat. Dense, sappy and sweet, with a finer grain than the Marsannays. This rather seductive village wine boasts a creamy, seamless texture and finishes with sweet tannins and excellent spicy length, but it's also quite young and in need of further elevage

Cinnamon, ginger, chalk dust, bitter chocolate, sour cherry and plum inform the clear, cool-fruited yet satisfyingly ripe and strikingly gripping finish of this beauty, the finest Marsannay of my acquaintance. The 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Champs-Chenys (from largely old vines below Charmes Chambertin) smells of black raspberry distillate, toasted almonds, and maraschino, is quite creamy on the palate, and persists with a strikingly intense, sorbet-like expression of bitter-sweet black raspberry along with stony minerality. Philippe Roty and his brother have matters well in hand and are on their way to bottling (as always here, unfiltered) a superb collection of 2005s. That said, this won’t even begin happening until late Spring and some wines may not be bottled until year’s end. (Wines followed above by the initials P.R. are from Philippe’s vines and will be labeled with his name.) Prolonged skin contact and gentle but relentless extraction are the practice here, and in 2005 that has made for Pinots of almost shockingly deep color, abundant and firm but fine tannins, and terrific overall intensity. David Schildknecht Wine Advocate # 170 Apr 2007