South America’s finest Argentina and Chile have rapidly become hotspots for fine wine. Offering high-altitude sites with glorious sunshine, and varied soils, it’s no surprise that some of Bordeaux’s top estates have ventured into the two nations. Cheval Blanc's Argentinian collaboration with Terrazas de los Andes, Cheval des Andes, is unsurprisingly impressive. The estate works with high-altitude sites to produce a Malbec-based blend. The 2018 that is set to be released this year has already been rated highly by James Suckling (98 points), who wrote, “This will be a great wine indeed.” First Growth Ch. Mouton Rothschild works with Concha y Toro in Chile’s Maipo Valley to produce Almaviva – a wine that has, in Suckling’s words, become “a benchmark for the reds of the Andes”. He awarded 97 points to the 2019 and describes it as “extremely perfumed… vertical and integrated”. Bodega Catena Zapata – one of Mendoza’s leading names – will release the 2018 vintage of its top wines, Nicolás Catena Zapata and Adrianna Vineyard Mundus Bacillus Terrae. The latter is a Malbec from a 1.4-hectare plot which sits at almost 5,000 feet, while Nicolás Catena Zapata is the estate’s flagship wine – and Argentina’s first “Grand Vin”, made with the finest fruit from ungrafted vines on the family’s high-altitude sites. Both have earned high praise with the Wine Advocate’s Luis Gutiérrez describing the 2018 as “among the finest vintages for the Mundus Bacillus Terrae” (98 points). The Chadwick family – who own Errázuriz – will also release the 2019 vintages of their top cuvées, Seña and Viñedo Chadwick. Made by Francisco Baettig, these are incredible wines – earning 98 and 99 points from James Suckling, respectively. Last but not least is Clos Apalta, the Chilean estate that produces the finest expression of Carménère in the world. The 2018 is another excellent release, with 98 points from James Suckling. Super Tuscan stars The 2018 vintage in Tuscany was stunning – producing wines of elegance and freshness. While some of the Super Tuscans have already been released, a handful will be available via La Place this month. Masseto – the cult Ornellaia breakout star, described as the “Pétrus of Italy” – and the third vintage of its second wine, Massetino, will be released. Produced in tiny volumes, these extraordinary expressions of Merlot will be in unsurprisingly high demand. Solaia – Tignanello’s sibling from the Antinori stable – is set to be similarly popular, as ever. Giving it 98 points, Antonio Galloni of Vinous wrote, “I can't remember ever tasting a young Solaia with this much sheer appeal and balance in the early going.” The month will also see the latest releases from Bibi Graetz. The artist-turned-winemaker works with old vines and indigenous varieties to produce elegant expressions of Chianti. The 2019 Colore received 99 points from James Suckling who described it as “old-vine magic”, finding the 2019 Testamatta serious and structured (97 points). Cult California September sees a flurry of the Golden State’s most illustrious names hit the market. Opus One – the joint venture between Mondavi and Ch. Mouton Rothschild – is consistently in demand, and no more so for the 2018, with 98 points from Wine Advocate’s Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW and 99 points from Suckling. Having tasted it ourselves – we can vouch for the elegance of the vintage. It’s also worth paying attention to the new release of Overture (also based in the 2018 vintage), which is undoubtedly the best to date. Keep an eye out for the top-scoring 2018s from Vérité (100 points for La Muse, 98 points for La Joie and 97+ for Le Désir from Wine Advocate); the latest release of Joseph Phelps’ Insignia, the original Napa Valley proprietary red (2018 – with 97+ points from Wine Advocate); the 2019s from L’Aventure – the Pasa Robles estate run by Bordelais expat Stephan Asseo; and the 2017 vintage of Dominus (97+ points from Wine Advocate) – the cult wine from Christian Moueix of Pétrus. The new vintage from Maya Dalla Valle – who trained at Pétrus, Latour, Masseto and more, and is now heading up the family estate, Dalla Valle – is guaranteed to fly. The 2018 Maya has already got a smattering of top scores, with 100 points from Wine Advocate’s Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, who wrote, “As cerebral as it is downright hedonic, this Maya is simply jaw-dropping.” This year will also see the latest vintage of Beaulieu Vineyard’s Georges de Latour Private Reserve – Napa’s first cult wine, and only its second release via La Place. The 2018 has 98 points from both Vinous and Suckling, with Antonio Galloni describing it as “sensational”. Ex-château classics The September Series isn’t limited to the New World – with a handful of estates in Bordeaux and the Rhône joining in, including the annual release of a ready-to-drink vintage of Ch. Latour, after the First Growth left the en primeur system. This year sees a star-studded vintage, 2005, emerge from the cellars. A vintage that needs little introduction, this wine has unsurprisingly high scores; tasting it earlier this year, Antonio Galloni gave it a perfect 100 points, describing it as “life affirming”. Ch. Palmer will also release 2011; while a less illustrious vintage, Robert Parker described it as the wine of the vintage in Margaux. Cheval Blanc, meanwhile, will release the 2019 vintage of Le Petit Cheval Blanc, the property’s highly desirable white. While normally Ch. d’Yquem would also release a vintage of their sweet wine, they are holding back the 2019, so this year sees only the 2020 vintage of Y d’Yquem (the estate’s dry white) released. Looking across to the Rhône, Ch. de Beaucastel will release the 2019 vintage of their Hommage à Jacques Perrin. This cuvée comes from ancient Mourvèdre vines and is made in tiny volumes. Alistair Cooper MW of jancisrobinson.com describes it as “a powerful thoroughbred”. Top wines from further afield A handful of wines from South Africa and Australia have also made their way onto La Place. The 2018 vintage of Klein Constantia’s Vin de Constance – the iconic sweet wine with a long and fabled history – will be released this year, perhaps a comfort to sweet wine fans who won’t be getting their fix with Yquem. Only scored so far by James Suckling (98-99 points), he rightly acknowledges it as a “unique wine”. Two names from Down Under get their second release via La Place this year. The 2017 vintage of Jim Barry’s The Armagh Shiraz – a Clare Valley legend – will be joined by 2018 Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon, a standard-bearer for Coonawarra. New this year This year sees several new names join the September Series. First up is Peter Michael Winery: founded by Sir Peter Michael CBE in the 1980s, this estate has been championing single-site, elegant wines from its corner of the Knights Valley, on the border of Napa and Sonoma, ever since. The 2018 vintage of the property’s Cabernet blends Les Pavots (from a single plot on the original Knights Valley estate, 97 points from Jeb Dunnuck) and Au Paradis (from a site in Oakville, purchased in 2009, 98 points from Jeb Dunnuck). While Robert Parker has spent much of his time rating wine, he also invested in a property in Oregon with his brother-in-law Michael Etzel. The result is Beaux Frères, now part of the Henriot stable, in Ribbon Vale, which produces world-class Pinot Noir. The 2019 vintage of the two top cuvées – from the Beaux Frères Vineyard and Upper Terrace Vineyard – will hit La Place this year. For the first time, Australia’s most famous estate, Penfolds, will release one of its wines, Bin 169 Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon. A classic expression of this grape on the region’s terra rossa soils, the 2018 is described as “impressive” by Suckling (97 points). Recently announced is the first vintage of Yjar – a new ultra-premium Rioja from Telmo Rodríguez. It’s described as an “outstanding first bottling” (James Suckling, 97 points) and “a wine that transcends the vintage” (Luis Gutiérrez from Wine Advocate, 96 points). Learn more about La Place de Bordeaux and the September Releases or read more Editorial

September sees the latest vintages from some of the world’s top estates released via La Place de Bordeaux. Ahead of the 2021 releases, we run through the vintages and properties that you’ll want on your radar

Exploring the top 2021 wines released by some of the world’s top estates via La Place de Bordeaux.

Top 2021 estate releases via La Place de Bordeaux

September Series: the 2021 edition unpacked

Each September, the new vintages of an exclusive group of fine wines are released via La Place de Bordeaux. Amongst the new additions this year are three exciting wines from Australia and California – giving many consumers their first chance to buy these iconic names. Find out more about our pick of the new wines below. Beaulieu Vineyard's Georges de Latour Private Reserve: Napa’s original cult Cabernet Founded in 1900 by Georges de Latour and his wife Fernande, Beaulieu Vineyard is one of the most historically important wineries in Napa Valley. Not only is it one of the longest continuous-running wineries in California (as one of the few that ran throughout Prohibition), it was also home to the most legendary figure in California wine history, André Tchelistcheff, who made the wine here for 40 years. The property’s Georges de Latour Private Reserve is seen by many as Napa Valley’s first “cult Cabernet”. The wine was originally made exclusively for the family’s personal consumption, but when André Tchelistcheff arrived at the estate in 1938 and tasted the 1936 vintage, he insisted that it was bottled and sold as the winery’s flagship bottling. It was released in 1940, named in honour of Georges de Latour who had died earlier that year. It soon became one of the region’s most famous and desirable wines, recognised as an example of the quality that was possible in Napa and in particular Rutherford. Today Georges de Latour Private Reserve is made in its own dedicated winery. The fruit is selected from vineyards originally planted by Georges de Latour in the early 1900s, hand-picked and fermented in 50% new oak. This year the wine will for the first time be released via La Place, with the 2017 vintage – the 81st for this cuvée. Jim Barry The Armagh: a Clare Valley icon Jim Barry is one of Australia’s winemaking legends and a pioneer of the Clare Valley – a region now firmly recognised for its fine wine credentials. He was the valley’s first qualified winemaker, graduating from Roseworthy in 1947 and establishing Jim Barry Wines with his wife Nancy in 1959. Over the years the estate has been rightly widely praised, most recently being named James Halliday’s 2020 Winery of the Year. The Armagh is the property’s flagship cuvée, made with 100% Shiraz, first produced in 1985. Barry wanted to produce a wine that would compete with other Australian icons such as Wendouree (a neighbour and inspiration behind the wine), Penfolds Grange and Henschke’s Hill of Grace – which it undoubtedly does. It is one of the few wines classified as “Exceptional” by Langton’s – the definitive guide on fine Australian wine. Sourced from a single low-yielding vineyard planted in 1968, the fruit is hand-harvested in several passes. The wine is matured in a combination of French and American oak for 15 months, creating a wine that is plush and supple, with rich layers of fruit and great structure that prepares it for decades in the cellar. The 2016 made its début on La Place this year – a wine rated 99 points by James Suckling, who described it as “one of the most impressive releases to date”, while Joe Czerwinski of the Wine Advocate declared it “my pick of the recently bottled vintages”. It’s without a doubt one to watch. Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon: classic Coonawarra John Riddoch first planted vineyards in the Coonawarra’s famous terra rossa soils in 1891; today Wynns is the region’s most famous winery, and one of Australia’s best known. The attention to detail at this estate is exceptional, monitoring individual vines and studying the soils with a precision that places them firmly amongst an elite group of Australian wine producers. The resulting wines have remarkable balance and complexity. For over 20 years, the partnership of Sue Hodder and Sarah Pidgeon in the winery, and Allen Jenkins in the vineyards, has pushed quality even higher. Their flagship cuvée is the John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon, named after the region’s pioneer and first made in 1982. It is only produced in exceptional years, with a blend of the best Cabernet parcels that vintage – representing less than 1% of the estate’s top Cabernet grapes. It tends to spend between 16 and 20 months in oak (around 30% new, a combination of barrels and hogsheads). Like Jim Barry’s The Armagh, it is one of the few wines to be listed as “Exceptional” in Langton’s Classification. This year sees the release of the 2016 vintage via La Place – a wine that James Halliday describes as “a cabernet of the highest class”, awarding it 98 points. Read more about the rise of the September releases and how La Place works

The list of fine wines released via La Place de Bordeaux each September grows each year. Here, we introduce three of the most exciting wines joining the line-up in 2020: Beaulieu Vineyards Georges de Latour Private Reserve, Jim Barry The Armagh Shiraz and Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon.

New La Place de Bordeaux: Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Private Reserve, Jim Barry The Armagh Shiraz and Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon.

New La Place de Bordeaux wine releases

Alcune regioni vinicole seguono il proprio ritmo. Dai rossi dolci della Rift Valley etiope alle bollicine delicate degli Altos de Pinto Bandeira, Arnica Rowan esplora terre remote con approcci unici alla viticoltura e al vino, pensati quasi esclusivamente per la propria gente.

Arnica Rowan explores wines that don’t make it to the international market – with distinctive styles from Ethiopia, Brazil, Thailand and beyond

Discover the wines of Ethiopia, Brazil and beyond

Non destinato all'esportazione

Wine writer Tamlyn Currin is well known for her love of off-the-beaten track wines, in particular wines from Germany. FONDATA asked her to consider why it is that Riesling fans (of which she is most certainly one) are so much more zealous than fans of other grape varieties.

Examine Riesling's authenticity as a terroir ambassador and its varied styles. Dive into its global celebration and why it's cherished by enthusiasts. 


FONDATA: Exploring Riesling's popularity

Riesling, it’s a tribal thing

The most famous vineyard in Argentina is named after Dr Adrianna Catena, who is the youngest daughter of pioneering vigneron Nicolás Catena Zapata. As well as her viticultural endeavours at Catena Zapata and her partnership with Alejandro Vigil as co-founder of the cult Argentine winery El Enemigo, she is a practicing historian.  Her area of interest is the 15th and 16th century Americas – a time when wine (and the vine) were first introduced to the continent following the Spanish conquest. The pivotal role of wine in Catholic ritual, and the dangers associated with drinking fresh water, she believes, would shape the development of wine production in the Americas. For Catena, the intimate relationship between wine and water continues to play a central role in shaping Mendoza’s social landscape.  The history of water and wine in South America is a fascinating topic for Catena. Although her PhD thesis focused on the trade in indigo dye from the Americas to Europe, her attachment to wine – as well as the very real concerns of water scarcity in Mendoza – are subjects important to her as a historian and as a vigneron. Through the Catena Institute of Wine (CIW), the Catena Zapata winery has pioneered research in viticulture across a broad rand of topics. It includes ground-breaking work on terroir, ageability, and soil biodiversity, as well as in depth studies on extreme elevation vine growing in a context of changing climatic conditions – but some of their most pressing work centres around water preservation.  “Water preservation is one of our most important areas of research today,” says Catena. “Organic farming is easier in the very dry climate of Mendoza, than in Bordeaux, where higher rainfall and relative humidity mean vineyards will be more susceptible to fungal diseases – for us, when it comes to a sustainable future and regenerative farming, water preservation is key.” Catena Zapata’s head viticulturalist Luis Reginato is nicknamed “the water guy” at Catena – such is his obsession.  “He’s always trialing new, experimental ways to save water.” But she notes, the region has a long successful history of water management for Reginato to tap into. “The irrigation systems developed by the native Huarpe people before the arrival of Europeans were key to successful agriculture in the region, and these systems are still in use today,” says Catena.  For centuries, irrigation channels and aqueducts have diverted water from the Andes mountains to terrace lower Andes farmlands, bringing fresh drinking water to the cities. The Incas, Catena says, whose power extended briefly to this region, were quite unique among early modern empires in the quality of their nutrition and a notable absence of famine – made possible by terraced agriculture on the Andean slopes and complex irrigation systems.  While advanced water networks had been essential to pre-Hispanic and later colonial agriculture, Europeans treated drinking water with caution. “Up until the last century, it was a common belief that water, especially in exotic or tropical regions, could be bad for your health,” says Catena. “Contaminated water could (and can still) kill you and was considered extremely dangerous.” Wine in many parts of Europe (and the Americas, following the Spanish conquest) along with ales and beer, was often considered a safer option. Where they felt there was no access to clean water, wine became an essential part of the diet.  Wine was a key European import in the early days of the Spanish conquest, notes Catena. And for the Spaniards, it was not without its health benefits. “During this period, medicine was humoral, people believed everything you ingested would affect your mood, health, and disposition,” she explains. “In one claim from the time, ‘vino‘ (wine) came from the word ’vena‘ (vein) – it was considered nourishing, and closely resembles blood and was associated with this. Some believed it fortified the veins.”  But, as Catena explains, wine was more than a health benefit for the conquistador. “Wine was also an essential symbol of Christianity and Christianity was a moving force in the Spanish conquest.” The conquest of Mexico would roughly coincide with the start of Luther’s Reformation.  The Spanish, for their part, wanted to secure a triumph for Catholicism, and in the inhabitants of the new world, saw millions of souls to fill their ranks against the Protestants. “It was the conquistador’s mission,” she says. “Behind the conquest was a big effort to convert the native population.” Catena explains how wine – as with wheat – was a highly symbolic food for Christianity, representing the blood of Christ.  “If you are trying to convert an entire native population to Catholicism, rituals will be fundamental,” she says. Wine had always held a central role in religious ritual and was key to the religious side of the Conquest. Conquistadors, she explains, had to build a church on their land after being awarded territory by the Crown for their service – and they were also made responsible for converting the indigenous population. “In this quest, as one historian put it, to advance the religious and territorial conquest – the two basic foods the Spanish needed were wheat and wine.” Initially, all wine was imported from Europe, but vines were swiftly introduced and acclimated. By the 1570s vineyards had been planted all over South America, albeit under strict regulations. Priests, for example, were allowed to plant vineyards – but there was a lot of legislation over who could and couldn’t grow grapes. By the 1570s vineyards had been planted all over the Americas.  For health, religious and cultural reasons, everyone drank wine in 16th and 17th century South America – it was part of the diet, explains Catena. But as the influence of humoral medicine waned following the Enlightenment – and better sanitation practices were discovered – the perceived symbolic benefits of wine declined. As the population grew exponentially in the 19th century, so did wine production in Argentina. Italian and Spanish immigrants arrived on the continent, leaving behind their famine-stricken homelands. “Wine consumption reached extraordinary levels,” says Catena, “particularly with the development of the railways.” This new technology enabled the speedy, efficient transportation of wine from producing regions to the Argentine capital of Buenos Aires. Nicola Catena was one such immigrant, who arrived in Mendoza in 1898 at the age of 17, planting his first vineyard in 1902. A native of Le Marche, from a family of vinegrowers, it was not so surprising that Catena went into wine production.  While Mendoza is much like a desert with very little rainfall (between 200 and 400 mm per year), the irrigation channels developed by the indigenous Huarpe people (a nation periodically under Inca rule), were used to divert snow melt from the Andes, enabling farmers to flood farmland when required, making viticulture possible. By the time Nicola’s son Domingo Catena took over, the family had become renowned winemakers in Mendoza. In more modern times, wine and water’s relationship has changed considerably. Wine in many instances has become a luxury and no longer an essential part of the diet – although Catena says that culturally wine remains a common sight at every meal in Argentina.  Under the guardianship of Nicolás Catena and now his daughter Laura, Catena Zapata has become among a growing number of quality-led producers in Mendoza whose wines compete with the finest in the world. Their top wines – Mundus Bacillus Terrae and Nicolás Catena – led the charge in putting Mendoza on the fine wine map. Water too is no longer viewed with as much caution, but nor is it taken for granted. It barely rains at all in Mendoza – with the region effectively a high-altitude desert. Without snowmelt from the mountains, agriculture here would be impossible, but glacial reserves in Argentina are decreasing. With climate change, water in these parts will no longer be simply available at the turn of a tap. “The preservation of water has become an important concern of winemaking in Mendoza. This is one of the most urgent questions for our region today,” says Catena. Ongoing research at Catena includes many water-saving experiments. “More than a decade ago we transitioned all our vineyards from the traditional, but wasteful system of flood irrigation, to drip irrigation. Since then, we’ve created reservoirs to capture rainwater, and set up water stations to measure and restrict irrigation to the bare minimum in our family vineyards.” For Catena, “these small changes can have a large and lasting impact.” The goal at Catena is to manage a regenerative and sustainable agricultural cycle. Catena notes how the Incas were able to transform their environment without causing irreparable damage to it. “We can inhabit this earth without being parasitical,” she says. As members of a larger viticultural community, Catena hopes to share the lessons it has learned from its research, to enable this region that has been shaped by water and wine to continue making high-quality wine centuries from now. Optimistically she says, “We believe we are at a tipping point, and the mindset is gathering momentum here more than ever before.” Since wine was introduced to the continent in the 16th century, there have been huge cultural changes. But the irrigation systems that allowed those first vines to grow remain in use, feeding the countless vineyards, often centuries old. Without water, there will be no wine. With Argentinian wine so popular around the world today, a lot rides on Catena Zapata’s research. The hope is that they can lead the charge, shaping a bright future for this region. Browse all listings from Catena Zapata and El Enemigo or read more Editorial 

Dr Adrianna Catena – of Catena Zapata and El Enemigo – is not just a winemaker, but a practicing historian. We sat down with her to talk about how wine shaped South America’s social landscape and how water conservation and sustainable irrigation practices will secure its future.

Dr Adrianna Catena from Catena Zapata and El Enemigo on the historical importance of water and wine in the Americas.

Talking to historian and vigneron Adrianna Catena

How water and wine shaped a civilisation: Adrianna Catena

Saint-Emilion has been hitting the headlines. And not in the way it would like to. In July, just after the region’s châteaux submitted applications for the 2022 classification, two of the region’s four Premier Cru Classé A estates – Chx Cheval Blanc and Ausone – announced that they would be withdrawing from the classification system. This week sees a dispute over the 2012 classification enter the courts – with accusations that the results were fixed. The Médoc’s leading names were ranked in 1855 – with but one change (Ch. Mouton Rothschild's promotion) in 1973. The classification was uncomplicated, with no fussing over terroir, tastings or winemaking talent; it was based purely on price. It’s hard to believe that it remains relevant today – but, while of course there are properties that stand out, it’s more or less accepted, and reflective. Across the river in Saint-Emilion, they wanted something different. Something fairer. A system that flexed with an estate’s waxing and waning. The ambition was – and is – laudable. The reality, well… The classification is overseen by the Institut National des Appellations d’Origine (INAO) – the body responsible for France’s appellation system. The concept was mooted in the 1950s, with the first list published in 1955. The idea was that it would be re-drawn every 10 years – both to be more democratic and provide an incentive for long-term quality. Unlike the Left Bank’s system, it would assess terroir and include a tasting of the wines. The aim was, and is – as a spokesperson for the INAO told me, to help consumers distinguish between the region’s many properties and help “maintain a level of excellence”. The classification is based on a scoring system out of 20, with the breakdown of scores different to qualify for Grand Cru Classé (requiring a minimum 14 points) versus Premier Grand Cru Classé (requiring a minimum 16). In 2012, the possible points for Premier Grand Cru Classé were broken down thus: 30% based on the quality of the wine – with a tasting of 15 vintages; 30% on the estate’s terroir; 35% on the property’s renown (both national and international), promotion and distribution; and the remaining 5% on viticulture, vinification and traceability. Even the first, 1955 list was disputed, changed just three years later, then again two months later, before settling on 63 Grands Crus Classés and 12 of the elite Premiers Grands Crus Classés. The very best of this latter group were named “Premier Grand Cru Classé A” (the rest Premier Grand Cru Classé B) – with just two making the cut, Chx Ausone and Cheval Blanc. Since 1958 the region’s wines have been re-classified regularly – if not quite on the 10-year cycle forecast, in 1969, 1986, 1996, 2006 and then 2012. But there has always been an undercurrent of discontent. In 2006, five properties filed lawsuits and the ruling was declared invalid, with the 1996 classification reinstated. For the 2012 classification, the INAO seemed determined to clean things up. The tastings and site inspections were, for the first time, outsourced by the INAO, with wine professionals from other regions (Burgundy, the Rhône, Champagne, the Loire and Provence) roped in – including Marcel Guigal and Robert Drouhin. A company called Qualisud was to handle the tastings, while Bureau Veritas would take on visiting the estates. These independent authorities would, they thought, make it indisputable. The result was two new Premiers Grands Crus Classés A estates – with Chx Angélus and Pavie; while Larcis Ducasse, La Mondotte, Pavie Macquin, Troplong Mondot and Valandraud all promoted to Premier Grand Cru Classé B, and significant changes to the Grands Crus Classés (with a new total of 64 estates). But of course that wasn’t the end of it. Enter Chx Corbin-Michotte, Croque-Michotte and La Tour du Pin Figeac. The latter two had applied for and hoped to be promoted to Grand Cru Classé, while Corbin-Michotte was demoted in the 2012 rankings. They argue that the decision against them was “incomprehensible”, challenging the criteria for classification and insisting that two individuals – Hubert de Boüard (of Ch. Angélus) and Philippe Castéja (of Ch. TrotteVieille) – had “undue influence” with their roles within the INAO. It’s alleged that de Boüard was “present at all stages of the process elaborating the 2012 classification” (with it implied he influenced the ranking not only of Angélus but seven properties for which he consulted), while Castéja “pulled strings” to guarantee TrotteVieille’s Premier Grand Cru Classé status. The case went to administrative court, however the plaintiffs lost in 2015. They appealed, but lost again in 2019. And now they’re taking it to the criminal courts, with jail time and a fine of up to €500,000 on the cards for the accused. When I asked Frédéric Castéja – Philippe’s son and General Director of Borie Manoux – about the accusations, he told me: “I can only tell you that the Attorney General has dropped all accusations against [my father] and stated that he was not concerned at all with this so-called ‘influence’.” “When it comes to a public ranking, the level of controversy is as high as the stakes,” the INAO told me. It’s unsurprising, perhaps, given the impact the classification can have on an estate’s bottom line. After their promotion in 2012, Chx Pavie and Angélus saw instant price hikes: 2012 Angélus was released at 30% more than the 2011 en primeur, while Pavie went up 58%. That’s big bucks. And beyond the actual wine, it’s the land prices that really rocket. It wasn’t just these three (relatively minor) properties that seemed dissatisfied. Rumour has it that each year, the Médoc’s First Growths, Cheval Blanc, Ausone and Pétrus (“the group of nine”) all meet to taste the latest vintage. After Pavie and Angélus became newly minted First Growths, the group reportedly preferred to restrict the group to the original set. And in 2012 Ch. Ausone quietly removed the classification from its labels – a hint at what was to come. Eric Morain – one of the lawyers representing the three disgruntled estates – has commented that the classification has become “a system that sells the brand and no longer the grape”. La Revue du Vin de France’s 2021 Man of the Year, the attorney is a specialist in the world of wine and has earned a reputation for standing up for the little guys. He was instrumental in establishing the Syndicat de Défense des Vins Naturels (which introduced the Vin Méthode Nature trademark last year – a formal definition for natural wine in France), and has defended several wronged natural wine producers, such as Olivier Cousin and Alexandre Bain. Morain’s latest crusade, however, is against two goliaths – with connections and deep pockets. “The classification was thought out and developed and judged by people who had a direct interest. The rules were not the same for everyone,” Morain said on email to me. De Boüard and Castéja should have recused themselves, he argues. For Chx Corbin-Michotte, Croque-Michotte and La Tour du Pin Figeac (“They aren’t notable, just winegrowers who do their job well,” Morain says), this isn’t about money. They just want someone to admit they were wronged, unfairly excluded from the ranking. “Will they be convicted?” Bordeaux expert Jane Anson pondered, “I would imagine not, but I guess we will all have to wait and see...” For her, the drama is an unnecessary distraction “from the excellence of the wines and the entire classification”. In the meantime, the process for the 2022 classification has been rumbling on, with applications submitted this summer. Some changes have been made, again trying to make the classification – once and for all – watertight. Independent third party Bureau Veritas is now in charge of both tastings and site inspections, and the weighting of the tasting element has been increased for the Premiers Grands Crus Classés (bringing it in line with the weighting for the Grands Crus Classés) – worth 50% of the score (previously 30%) – while the portion for a property’s terroir has been reduced to just 10% (previously 30%). The puzzle is why the criteria remain different for a Premier Grand Cru Classé versus a Grand Cru Classé – something for which I haven’t been able to find an answer. Given estates need to score 17 for the heralded Premier Grand Cru Classé A, 16 for Premier Grand Cru Classé B and 14 for Grand Cru Classé, why make things even more complicated and declare that, for example in 2022, the quality of terroir has more significance for a Grand Cru Classé than a Premier Grand Cru Classé estate (20% versus 10% for the latter)? To make it into the upper echelons of the Premiers Grands Crus Classés, reputation is considered key – and this is a sticking point for many. While reputation, promotion and distribution represents 20% for the Grands Crus Classés, it stands for 35% of a property’s score for Premier Grand Cru Classé status. Including elements such as wine tourism, social media, PR and the accessibility of an estate, it has prompted remarks that the size of a winery’s car park has more relevance than the quality of its soils. The INAO emphasises that the criteria are very similar to those of the original classification in the 1950s. Reputation has always been included, they argue – they are simply adapting this to the modern day. Either way, it’s a minor element, they assure me – with, for example, social media representing just 0.3 points, or 1.5% of the final score, while wine tourism makes up a mere 1%. This hasn’t soothed the worries of the region’s two original Premiers Grands Crus Classés A properties, Ausone and Cheval Blanc. News broke soon after applications for the classification closed on June 30th that the prestigious estates had not submitted anything. When I spoke to both estates ahead of en primeur (April this year), the responses were interesting. Pierre-Olivier Clouet, Technical Director at Ch. Cheval Blanc, noted it was “a touchy question” before he continued. “We believe it’s quite difficult in 2021 to classify the wine like in 1855. This is not the same period this is not the same price per hectare, it is not the same price per bottle… Producing an outstanding wine is difficult on paper,” he said. “We don’t produce wine for the critics, for the classification – we make wine for the wine lover. Premier Grand Cru Classé A, Premier Grand Cru Classé B, Grand Cru Classé… we are Cheval Blanc, that’s it.” When I enquired whether he felt a wine’s distribution should have as much weighting as its terroir, he shrugged and smiled: “The answer is in the question.” Pauline Vauthier of Ch. Ausone was less willing to broach the topic, not wanting to be embroiled in the debate. “What counts is the quality of the product,” she said – making very clear that that is where the estate’s focus lies. “There are many classifications and they’re difficult for the public to understand. Ausone prefers to communicate about the quality of its wine.” She added: “[The 2012 classification] created much controversy, and that will certainly be the case with 2022.” When the news broke in July that both estates were withdrawing (along with sibling estates, La Clotte and Quinault l’Enclos), Pierre Lurton (Director of Ch. Cheval Blanc) and Clouet told Terre de Vins that there wasn’t enough emphasis on “the terroir, the wine, the history”. Edouard Vauthier (Ch. Ausone) explained, “Since 2012, some criteria added are not linked into the wine itself anymore. Some people apply for the classification for economic reasons more than quality and the respect of the terroir.” He highlighted that many of their customers hadn’t even noticed that “Premier Grand Cru Classé A” was no longer on the label. Indeed, why would they? Interestingly, these estates agree with Eric Morain on this. For Morain, the tasting component should represent much more – and as long as it counts for so little, “the classification will mean nothing”. The two behemoths are their own brands – brands that are much stronger than that of Saint-Emilion Premier Grand Cru Classé A. The loser, sadly, is set to be the classification itself, and its top-tier properties – which will no longer benefit from Cheval Blanc and Ausone’s halo effect. Of course, the INAO was keen to emphasise that – whether classified or not – the two estates would always be closely associated with the region, and that there were plenty of other estates that eagerly submitted applications. “Ausone and Cheval Blanc have always been driving forces behind the appellation and I hope will remain so,” Frédéric Castéja told me. “The risk is that at the next occasion other top estates (meaning other First Growths) do the same, then if too many leading estates leave, the classification is meaningless.” Morain – unsurprisingly given his campaign against the classification – is damning about its fate. Ausone and Cheval Blanc’s departure is, for him, “a symptom of a system on its last legs”. So is the 2022 ranking set to be the Saint-Emilion classification’s swansong? Perhaps – the more important question is maybe if it matters. “Saint-Emilion has so many châteaux (by far the most of any of the prestigious appellations) that there is a definite benefit to have some way of distinguishing the best wines,” Jane Anson said. “I fully agree with the principles, in fact think the idea of a renewable classification is very much consumer-driven and provides an incentive to estates to keep investing etc, but I think it has become unworkable.” And that is the problem – the theory is excellent, but how can it be put into practice? While the classification sounds helpful in principle, for most people, I suspect it isn’t. There’s too much confusion with Grand Cru, Grand Cru Classé and Premier Grand Cru Classé A or B. Unlike the Médoc’s straightforward numbering of First to Fifth Growth, it is not – to the uninitiated – immediately clear which is meant to be better than the other. Price and branding of an individual estate will be the more important differentiator. Talking to other producers in the region, few have answers – and few wish to champion the system’s survival. I asked Noëmie Durantou Reilhac – of Denis Durantou estates – whether she’d ever wish to see something similar in Pomerol. The answer was a firm no (“definitely”). “What really saddens me is seeing some plots in Saint-Emilion Grand Cru that are truly devastated,” she tells me. When I ask Nicolas Glumineau at Pichon Comtesse in Pauillac – a producer with a little distance – about his thoughts on it, he’s quick to quip: “That’s why we have an 1855 [classification] that we never move.” More seriously, he thinks the decade cycle is problematic. “I have this feeling that one classification every 10 years is probably too fast, too frequent. Probably 25 years – one generation could be enough.” Of course applying for the classification is voluntary – and not everyone does. Ch. Tertre Rôteboeuf, notably, has never played the game – despite the high quality of its wines. (The property is also renowned for handling its own distribution, outside the négociant system.) Ch. Haut-Brion owner Prince Robert of Luxembourg recently highlighted a benefit to being outside the classification – announcing his plans to expand Quintus with vineyards from the recently bought Ch. Grand Pontet. And this really gets to the point of what could make the Saint-Emilion classification work. As Anson said to me, “Saint-Emilion is the only classification in Bordeaux that includes the notion of terroir (and in fact taste) and that is also linked to a specific piece of land.” A classified property can’t automatically include new vineyards – unlike estates on the Left Bank. The classification is admirable in many ways – but how can you really quantify excellence? Is it ever really possible to pin down the true quality of a wine, or estate, with such exactitude? Is the picture not more nebulous than points can ever paint? “All classifications are correct as long as all players clearly know the rules,” Frédéric Castéja noted. “One must remember that classifications are always the picture of the past, but of course confirm the potential of the estate.” For Saint-Emilion, even the past feels in flux – discussed and debated. What the future holds is hard to say – but, for now, we’ll wait to see what’s in store for the class of 2022. Read more about Editorial  Since this article was published, Hubert de Boüard was found guilty of having undue influence in the 2012 Saint-Emilion classification. He was fined €40,000 and has not appealed the charge. Two properties, Ch. Croix de Labrie and Ch. Tour Saint-Christophe, are taking the INAO to court over their applications for the 2022 classification. In January 2022, Ch. Angélus announced it too was leaving the Saint-Emilion classification, stating the system had become a "vecteur d'antagonisme et d'instabilité". This leaves Ch. Pavie as the only remaining Premier Grand Cru Classé A estate. September 2022: the new classification has been unveiled, with Ch. Figeac promoted to Premier Grand Cru Classé A, alongside Ch. Pavie.

Saint-Emilion’s classification is in crisis – embroiled in court cases and controversy. But why? And does it matter? Sophie Thorpe investigates

Saint-Emilion’s classification is in crisis after leading names abandoned the system. We talk to Ausone, Cheval Blanc, Angelus and more about the controversy

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