Se mai prendete il treno per Saint-Émilion, noterete che attraversa il cuore dei vigneti della regione. Proprio dietro la stazione, alla periferia del villaggio, si trova Ch. Haut-Simard, una proprietà modesta che, guarda caso, appartiene ai Vauthier, la stessa famiglia che ha creato Ch. Ausone, una delle tenute più famose della regione. Oltre 15 anni dopo che la famiglia Vauthier ha rilevato la tenuta, sta emergendo dall'ombra, dimostrando la sua eccellenza. 
Ch. Simard e Haut-Simard, oggi entrambi di proprietà della famiglia Vauthier, un tempo facevano parte della stessa proprietà, risalente al XVI secolo, che prese il nome dalla famiglia Simard nel 1865. Quando la linea ferroviaria tra Libourne e Bergerac fu costruita nel 1870, attraversava direttamente i vigneti e divideva la tenuta in due. La ferrovia attraversa i piedi dei pendii di Saint-Émilion, dividendo nettamente due diversi terroir. A nord della linea ferroviaria si trova l'Haut-Simard, con terreni più argillosi e calcarei, mentre il Simard, più esteso, si trova a sud su terreni più sabbiosi. 
Nel 1917, i quattro ettari dell'Haut-Simard originale furono acquistati da Leonard e Charlotte Gratadoux. Nel 1929 costruirono una nuova casa e una cantina, ancora oggi in uso. Claude "Coco" Mazière, prozio di Édouard Vauthier, acquistò la cantina e 10 ettari di vigneto nel 1954, l'Haut-Simard originale e una parte del Simard. Gradualmente acquisì il resto della tenuta di Simard e ampliò Haut-Simard, portando le due tenute a un totale di 50 ettari. Sebbene i due vini siano stati a lungo prodotti separatamente, a partire dagli anni '90 Mazière ha concentrato tutte le uve nello Ch. Simard. 
Il prozio Coco ha gestito le tenute fino alla sua morte, nel 2008. "È mancato quasi in ufficio", mi racconta Edouard, sottolineando come Mazière abbia lavorato in modo quasi ossessivo fino alla fine dei suoi giorni. Alla sua morte, Alain Vauthier, il padre di Edouard, già responsabile di Ch. Ausone, Ch. Moulin Saint-Georges e Ch. de Fonbel, ha ereditato la tenuta di Simard. "Guarda le mappe del terreno e osserva dove si trova Ch. Haut-Simard: è sabbioso, un po' argilloso e un po' calcareo: è un terroir perfettamente adatto al Cabernet Franc", spiega Edouard. "Scavando un po', ti rendi conto che la falda freatica è 10-15 metri più in basso. È un terreno molto profondo e ottimo, che può produrre un ottimo vino." In effetti, basta guardare i vicini della proprietà per trovare nomi illustri: Canon-la-Gaffelière, La Gaffelière, Pavie e Larcis-Ducasse sono tutti a due passi. Haut-Simard si trova a soli sette o otto metri sul livello del mare, ma è sufficiente a separarlo dalla pianura alluvionale dove si trova gran parte di Simard. 
Rendendosi conto del potenziale, Alain decise di separare nuovamente Simard e Haut-Simard (reintrodotti a partire dall'annata 2008) e avviò un ampio programma di reimpianto per i 10 ettari di Haut-Simard, impiantando fasce di Cabernet Franc ad alta densità (12.600 viti per ettaro) nel 2008, 2009 e 2010. Laddove un tempo le viti di Haut-Simard contenevano circa l'80-85% di Merlot, ora il 70% del vigneto è dedicato al Cabernet Franc, puntando sulla qualità piuttosto che sulla quantità. Poco è cambiato nella cantina dalla sua costruzione nel 1929 e il team utilizza ancora le vasche di cemento originali. L'uva viene raccolta interamente a mano, con una selezione per densità ormai di routine, e rimane a contatto con le bucce per circa 20 giorni, preferendo il délestage (rastrellamento e rimontaggio) alle follature/rimontaggi per consentire un'estrazione delicata. Una volta pressato, il vino matura per circa 14 mesi in botti di un anno per il 20-30% e il resto in cemento. 
Poiché gran parte del vigneto è stata estirpata, i volumi erano esigui nelle prime annate dei Vauthier. L'uva proveniente dalle giovani vigne ha iniziato a essere introdotta a partire dal 2014 e l'assemblaggio ha continuato a cambiare, con il 2022 il primo a contenere il 70% di Cabernet Franc. "Ha cambiato completamente le carte in tavola", afferma Edouard, spiegando come stiano finalmente vedendo i frutti del loro lavoro. Anche ora, vengono prodotte solo 2.500 casse all'anno. 
Per Edouard, il Merlot sui terreni più sabbiosi porta note di fragola, mentre sui terreni calcarei aggiunge liquirizia, completando il frutto scuro e il peperone verde del Cabernet Franc. Quel frutto scuro si è sviluppato con ogni annata, con l'arrivo dei nuovi impianti e la maturazione delle viti, conferendo ulteriore consistenza e struttura. L'età media del vigneto è ora di soli 15-16 anni, destinata a offrire di più con la maturazione. Questo potrebbe essere un vino modesto, ma ha una capacità più che sufficiente per invecchiare. "Sono sicuro che durerà 15 anni senza problemi", afferma Edouard. 
Assaggiando diverse annate, è sorprendente vedere l'evoluzione dello stile Haut-Simard, dal più solido 2016 al lineare, luminoso ed elegante 2022. È un vino che ci ha impressionato anche en primeur negli ultimi due anni, dimostrandosi ben al di sopra delle sue aspettative. Degustazione Ch. Haut-Simard 
Ch. Haut-Simard 2016: Succulento, dolce e rotondo, è corposo e concentrato, con una vera densità di frutto al palato. È fresco, con un finale salino, ma possiede una certa solidità, senza la precisione, la brillantezza e gli aromi delle annate più recenti. Assemblaggio: 65% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc 
Ch. Haut-Simard 2018: Il naso dell'Haut-Simard 2018 è immediatamente più espressivo rispetto al 2016, combinando frutti rossi e una nota erbacea con una dolcezza tostata. Al palato è più lineare. Il cuore intenso del frutto è ricco e compatto, incorniciato da tannini granulosi in questa fase relativamente giovane. Il finale è lungo e sapido, con un accenno di foglia di ribes nero. Uvaggio: 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc 
Ch. Haut-Simard 2019: Floreale, vellutato e aromatico, l'Haut-Simard 2019 è completamente diverso dall'annata precedente. Delicati frutti di bosco, ribes nero e rosso, conducono a un palato elegante e fine. È preciso e succoso, agile ed equilibrato con tannini fini e gessosi. Uvaggio: 60% Cabernet Franc, 40% Merlot 
Ch. Haut-Simard 2022: Il 2022 è la stella indiscussa della nostra mini-verticale di Haut-Simard, e l'annata che Edouard Vauthier indica come punto di riferimento per la tenuta. Al naso è dolce e luminoso, ricco di frutti di bosco rossi impeccabili, insieme a sentori floreali e di scaglie di matita. È il palato a sorprendere, tuttavia, deciso e lungo, lineare con tannini incisi alla grafite e un'acidità appetitosa. Vibrante, preciso e molto, molto buono, soprattutto per il prezzo. Uvaggio: 70% Cabernet Franc, 30% Merlot 
Ch. Haut-Simard 2024: Il naso è profumato, con intense note di ciliegia e fiori soavi. Al palato si percepisce un'intensità lussureggiante, con una nota minerale che sostiene il frutto e completa la brillante acidità. La concentrazione è deliziosa, con tannini fini che creano una struttura densa e strutturata. 12,7% e pH 3,74. Uvaggio: 80% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot [degustato en primeur, maggio 2025]

La famiglia Vauthier, celebre per Ch. Ausone, possiede varie tenute sulla Rive Droite. Negli ultimi 15 anni, Ch. Haut-Simard ha beneficiato di importanti investimenti. Abbiamo incontrato Édouard Vauthier per parlare della trasformazione della tenuta, oggi evidente nel calice.

Over the last 15 years, the Vauthier family has invested significantly in Haut-Simard. We sat down with Edouard Vauthier to talk about the evolution underway 

Change at Ch. Haut-Simard – the Vauthier family estate 

Cambio di marcia a Ch. Haut-Simard

Every now and then, the word ‘singularity’ is used to describe a particular wine that stands apart, for whatever reason, from other wines of its type. But just what is singularity, and how can wine express it? Wine writer Tamlyn Currin investigates.

What makes a wine truly singular? Tamlyn Currin explores the rare bottles that defy convention and challenge the rules of the wine world.

Searching for Singularity in wine

Searching for Singularity

The Vauthier family is among Saint-Emilion’s most influential. The custodians of Ch. Ausone, they have been knocking about this medieval village since the 17th century, with the young team running Ausone today the 11th generation to make wine there. But the Vauthiers’ presence in Saint-Emilion spreads far beyond Ch. Ausone. They have also been in charge of neighbouring estate Ch. Moulin Saint-Georges since 1921, Ch. de Fonbel since 1971 and more recently Ch. Simard and Ch. Haut-Simard (since 2008). Their latest acquisition (again in Saint-Emilion) is the famed four-hectare site of Ch. la Clotte – another jewel in an impressive line-up of estates. Edouard Vauthier, the latest to join the business full-time (in 2019), likes to classify their properties using (heaven forbid) the Burgundy hierarchy. “If Ch. Ausone is the Grand Cru,” he says, “then La Clotte and Moulin Saint-Georges, still on the limestone plateau, are the Premier Cru equivalent. Ch. de Fonbel and the Simard estates are not on limestone but on sandier, clay soils, and therefore represent the village wines.” Tasting through the wines of all six estates, there is an undeniable similarity in style running through them. They all have such a refined tannic texture and purity of fruit, even in the least expensive bottlings of Ch. Simard and Fonbel. Edouard believes this is very much down to the family’s personal taste when it comes to ripeness levels, and their methods of extraction and maceration at fermentation. But it is not only this. When Alain Vauthier (Edouard’s father) took over the estates in 1999, he had huge ambitions for his “village” wines, Fonbel and Simard. “My father wanted to apply the same meticulous attention to detail in all his wines, whatever the family accountant might think,” he chuckles. Given the price of Simard on release is less than £10 a bottle, it might not make much financial sense to give it the same attention as Ausone, but they do – making these wines outstanding value. At this price, the wines are ideal for restaurants, with much of the stock held back specifically for them.  The Vauthier family’s eye for detail, even in these inexpensive wines, has also been to Ausone’s benefit. Simard, Fonbel and even Moulin Saint-Georges have all been a hotbed of experiments over the last two decades and have really helped, Edouard believes, enhance the quality at Ausone.   As trends changed in the region, Ausone, admits Edouard, adapted their extraction methods, notably from 2006 onwards. They also reduced the toasting of the barrels from 2011, which they felt was hiding some of the fruit, and you can taste the change in the oak regime comparing the wines over this period. Ausone is aged in 100% new oak, even today, but the change in toasting, he feels – and I agree, has greatly improved the wine. Tasting the older vintages today, while the oak is more present, the wines have not lost their unique identity – the sinewy yet refined tannins and amazing freshness are still very present, and the wines have matured beautifully. Despite Ausone’s premiership at this time, Edouard’s father Alain loved to experiment. Edouard jokes that his father was a little too obsessed with machinery. From about 2008 onwards he was buying up all sorts of state-of-the-art equipment, predominantly to try and raise the quality of their other estates. Being able to constantly compare these wines against Ausone was a healthy barometer. While many of these investments didn’t pay off, his father’s open-mindedness led to a magnificent discovery which was to have a huge influence on the Vauthier recipe and Saint-Emilion more widely today. He was the first vigneron in the world to trial the density sorting bath.  “It’s a very simple machine, perhaps that’s why we like it,” Edouard laughs. “If the machinery becomes complicated, we don’t understand anything.” The original design was used in pea production and was then modified to work for grapes. As the berries arrive at the winery, they are submerged, for less than a second, in a bath made up of a water and sugar solution. “It is a simple calculation,” says Edouard. “The density level can be adjusted so that any grape not sufficiently dense (and therefore concentrated) is disposed of. It brings 100% reliability to the sorting.” For the family, when they switched to using the machine, there was a clear distinction when it came to fruit purity in the wine.  But Edouard believes the density sorting machine is not only for sorting the grapes. Because the berries are submersed in water prior to fermentation, it cleans the berries. “All the dirt, all the dust, all the small particles are washed off. Going into the fermentation process you have a very clean tank and it results in a very clean fermentation. There are no impurities.”  As with all their experiments, the density bath was first tested at Ch. Simard in 2011. So happy with the initial results, they introduced it to Moulin Saint-Georges in 2012. By 2013 all three cellars and all six wines were equipped with the machine. Every grape of Ch. Ausone since 2013 has undergone density sorting. Tasting the wines from 2013 through to 2020, they have only become more ethereal. The purity of fruit is undeniable. This is not only down to the density bath, but with such a clean fermentation and a knowingness of the concentration levels of the berries, the winemaking team, Edouard explains, didn’t need to overly extract to get concentration or flavour into the wine. “We were ahead of the game,” he says, “and it was fortunate my father was friends with the inventor. We were one of the first using it.” Today Edouard estimates that at least 25% of Saint-Emilion properties use the method. Despite the advancements in technology, the Vauthier family knows that terroir remains the trump card in Saint-Emilion. Despite Alain’s meticulous attention to detail and however perfectly made the wines are, Simard or Fonbel will never give you the complexity you find in the berries of Ausone. It is the one part of the recipe that cannot be changed.  Saint-Emilion is a variable appellation, but its uniqueness lies in the presence of limestone. It is this that gives the wines low pH and naturally high acidity resulting in a natural freshness and energy in the wine. The grapes of Simard and Fonbel are grown on more fertile soils, which means the yields are naturally higher and therefore less complex. It also means more work needs to be done to manage mildew and disease.  “It’s harder to make wine here,” says Edouard. “Ausone, we are lucky, it is in the perfect place. Although every inch is manicured, it doesn’t take that much work to maintain the quality.” Back in 2008, the Vauthiers did extensive research on the availability of water across their Saint-Emilion properties. It turns out Ausone, even in the driest years, can still access enough moisture through the entire year, necessary for the vines to avoid water stress, thanks to its limestone soils. It is a special site.   The biggest surprise for Edouard when understanding his family’s vineyards was the natural difference in the quality of berries from site to site. “It is something that cannot be explained,” he says, “other than terroir. If you taste the grapes from each of our properties, all at the same period, at the same level of ripeness. Moulin Saint-Georges and La Clotte will have maybe three to four times more flavours and aromas than Simard and Fonbel and at Ausone it is 10 times more. I can’t tell you why, but it is true.” It is fascinating to think that despite all the improvements, Edouard believes it’s difficult to produce an unremarkable wine at Ausone. No doubt it is the reason it has been a prime viticultural site for over 2,000 years. Even back in the day, using basic traditional methods, the results still proved to be incredible. “When you taste old Ausone,” says Edouard, “it is light, aérien, everything is super smooth, delicate and balanced. While we can play with extraction and oak, in the bottle, we always have an Ausone typicity in the end.” His family’s job, he believes, is simply make sure nothing goes wrong.  Despite Edouard’s humble assertions, there is no doubt that the wines today are spectacular, the younger vintages only becoming more ethereal, and more refined. There are few wines, if any, that perfectly embody the magic of Cabernet Franc on limestone, a perfect base recipe from Mother Nature’s hand – but with the Vauthiers in charge, Ausone is in good hands.   Explore all current Ausone listings or read more Editorial

We recently hosted an event with Ch. Ausone in London, tasting nine vintages of the wine, as well as a flight from the Vauthier family’s other estates. We caught up with Edouard Vauthier to discuss what makes the property unique – and where the magic lies in this idiosyncratic Bordeaux appellation

Edouard Vauthier tells us what makes Chateau Ausone so special and why terroir is everything in Saint-Emilion.

Finding the perfect recipe at Chateau Ausone

Ch. Ausone: the Vauthier vision

L'annata 2024 a Bordeaux ha portato piogge record, ma l'annata è molto più di questo. Mentre vengono lanciati i primi vini, Sophie Thorpe racconta un anno complicato e i vini che ha prodotto.

Explore the 2024 vintage in Bordeaux and the wines it produced – looking at the growing season and style of the wines as they’re released en primeur

Bordeaux 2024 wines en primeur – vintage overview

Bordeaux 2024: panoramica dell'annata

The vines are organically-farmed on a 15-hectare estate planted on white marl in the hamlet of Quintaine, just north of Clessé. Jean Thevenet and his son Gautier take their time producing their wines and retain traditional methods passed down from generation to generation. Ever since taking over the family estate in 1972 Jean has never been one to follow trends – keeping yields low (between 35-45 hectoliters per hectare) and picking purely on taste rather than relying on any data analytics from the lab. They have never been afraid to pick later than their peers due to their wines' amazing ability to retain acidity and freshness thanks to their unique marl blanche soils.  Even in a warmer vintage like 2015, Gautier says “you don’t feel the heat, the marl soil always providing a bitterness that offsets the fruit. If anything in 2015 the heat of the vintage has only brought a really incredible structure to the wine.” On tasting, its true – the wine is incredibly rich and fresh and finishes with a wonderful mineral salinity. For now, Gautier has not felt the bad effects of climate change, currently the warmer vintages are just bringing more complexity, structure and richness to the wines. For the 2015s, Gautier picked the grapes on the 17th September, which he states is not that much later than others in the region and perhaps just a week earlier than normal. Over the years he has learnt to trust in his terroir and even with such low yields (three times lower than the limits of the appellation) he needs to give the grapes time to reach optimum ripeness. The art of élevage Using no tricks to speed up the process, the wine ferments at a snail's pace under wild yeasts, producing a unique viscous-like texture and thanks to its distinct marl blanche soils a vibrant minerality and laser-like acidity. Grapes are left to hang on the vines until they are ultraripe. The grapes are then gently squeezed in a Coquard press until every ounce of flavour and all the intensely honeyed aromatics have been harvested. The wines undergo ultra-long fermentation and aged on the fine lees, and held back in the cellars at the domaine's expense, only being released when they are deemed ready to drink. These wines have amazing ageing ability too. Just recently William Kelley (Wine Advocate) talked about how the 1989 Viré-Clessé is drinking at its peak now at 30 years of age. Henri Jayer once said that a winemaker needs a chair. Less intervention, more reflection. This is somewhat mirrored in Jean Thevenet’s motto: “Terroir is to wine what a composer is to music. The winemaker being only the conductor.” In the cellars of Domaine de la Bongran intervention is minimal, with fermentations sometimes taking up to two years. Appellation controversy Despite Domaine de la Bongran being the most respected and appraised wine in the region, at the outset of the newly declared Viré-Clessé appellation in 1999, the wines of Domaine de la Bongran failed to qualify. The excuse from the IANO (administrative body) was that the levels of residual sugar were not considered “suitable” expressions of the region. Under these  new appellation rules the wines had to have a residual sugar level lower than 2g/litre, forcing Domaine de la Bongran to declassify down to Macon Villages. Following the extreme temperatures in 2003 all producers in the region produced wines with residual sugar over 2g/litre and therefore collaboratively put pressure on the IANO to increase the allowance up to 4g/litre allowing Bongran’s Viré-Clessé to qualify under the more premium Vire Clesse Appellation. For a body whose aim is to protect quality, specifically against over-cropping, the initial decision to omit the wines of Domaine de la Bongran seemed extraordinary, although it's fair to say the reputation of the winery precedes the appellation and if anything their inclusion has only elevated the status of the appellation. The wines The Viré-Clessé, also known as Cuvée Tradition, is the principal wine made at the estate, offering rich complexity, freshness and power with finesse. The wine is easily a match for the best of Puligny or Chassagne-Montrachet, they are examples of the heights that can be achieved with traditional winemaking methods. The Cuvée Levrouté (or Levroutee) is their off-dry wine typically around 18g/litre of residual sugar, only made in exceptional years, from part botrytised Chardonnay grapes, adding honey and truffle to the flavour profile. Cuvée Botrytis is a stunning rich sweet wine, coming from principally fully botrytised grapes. The conditions necessary to make this wine is are exceptionally rare, the last vintage being 2006. What the critics are saying: "..one of Burgundy’s greatest winemakers… served blind, tasters tend to think they are Grand Cru white Burgundies from Puligny- or Chassagne-Montrachet." Robert Parker  "The quality of what is produced here is mind-boggling." Allen Meadows, Burghound "Thévenet makes some of my favourite whites in all of Burgundy". William Kelley, Wine Advocate "quickly learned to love the wines… [which] are complex and fascinating, as age-worthy as many white Burgundy wines, perhaps even more so… Prices remain a fraction of what you would have to pay for a top Côte de Beaune, and I cannot recommend these highly enough." Neal Martin, Vinous "These are the wines of a genius." Robert Parker "Wine aficionados like to root for a winemaker who lives and breathes his calling. This is the story of a man who inspires just such support. He is Jean Thévenet... He’s obsessed with quality and makes terrific, highly distinctive white Burgundy…. Thévenet puts to shame many other producers in the Mâconnais." Wine Spectator Read more Editorial 

Domaine de la Bongran Vire Clesse is no ordinary Chardonnay from the Maconnais. It has its own particular style thanks to some rather unique terroir and an uncompromising approach to its winemaking. 

Exploring the Domaine de la Bongran Vire Clesse which has its own particular style thanks to some rather unique terroir

Vire Clesse by Domaine de la Bongran

Behind the bottle: Vire Clesse by Domaine de la Bongran

Ch. Ausone: the Vauthier Vision Our 2023 events line-up started with a bang at one of London’s most exciting and newest culinary establishments, Alex Dilling at Hotel Café Royal.  On a typically British February evening, our guests gathered at Hotel Café Royal for a Champagne reception and exceptional five-course meal celebrating one of Bordeaux’s most respected estates, Ch. Ausone. Each course was expertly designed to complement the nine remarkable Saint-Emilion vintages we tasted throughout the night.  The magical evening began with an exploration of the Vauthier family’s other wines in Saint-Emilion: Chx Haut-Simard, de Fonbel, Moulin Saint-Georges, La Clotte and Chapelle d’Ausone. These wines were the perfect introduction to the Vauthiers’ style of Bordeaux – wines of extraordinary precision and finesse. We then moved on to the main event – a vertical of Ch. Ausone stretching from 2003 to 2018, exploring the beauty of this property and how its style has developed under the Vauthiers. Edouard Vauthier – son of proprietor Alain Vauthier and brother to winemaker Pauline Vauthier – joined us to share the property’s fascinating history, guiding us through its distinct terroir and how they work in the vineyard and winery. This wonderful evening and comprehensive tasting provided the ultimate insight into this very special property – and was the perfect introduction to 12 months’ worth of wonderful gatherings with excellent food, wine and conversation. Full line-up: Champagne Henri Giraud, MV10  2016 Ch. Haut-Simard, Saint-Emilion 2015 Ch. Moulin Saint-Georges, Saint-Emilion  2015 Ch. la Clotte, Saint-Emilion  2016, 2011 Chapelle d’Ausone, Saint-Emilion  2018, 2017, 2016, 2009, 2008, 2007, 2006, 2005, 2003 Ch. Ausone, Saint-Emilion  Read more about the evening.  Le Pin from the beginning, with Jacques Thienpont The second event of the year, held at Claridge’s L’Epicerie, was a magnificent celebration of one of the most famous names in wine, Le Pin. With a mere 600 to 700 cases produced annually – a truly minuscule quantity that is dwarfed in comparison to fellow top estates of Pomerol and Saint-Emilion – few people ever get to taste these wines. Those fortunate enough to do so almost certainly wouldn’t have tasted the vintages on show back-to-back in February. Over the course of the evening, guests were treated to 15 incredible wines –  three from acclaimed vigneron Jacques Thienpont’s special Saint-Emilion operation L'If and 12 spellbinding wines from the iconic Pomerol es­tate, concluding with the 1990, 1983 and first-ever Le Pin vintage, 1979. Thienpont and Diana Berrouet Garcia (MD of Domaines Jacques Thienpont) joined us for the evening, sharing remarkable stories about one of the world’s most renowned and mythical producers. During this truly immersive experience, we were able to gain unprecedented insight into the style, philosophy and history of the incredible estate that produces one of the world’s rarest and most in-de­mand wines for collectors. Such was the quality of the wines on show that the world-class food served by the expert L’Epicerie team was almost reduced to a footnote. Seven exquisite dishes were prepared in Claridges’ iconic kitchens – each one designed to complement the remarkable wines that filled our guests’ glasses. Truly exceptional. Full line-up:  2015, 2013, 2012 L’If, Saint-Emilion  2010, 2009, 2008, 2007, 2006, 2005, 2001, 2000, 1991, 1990, 1983,1979 Le Pin, Pomerol Read more about the event.  Schrader Exploration with Jason Smith MS One of Napa’s cult names, Schrader Cellars, was the focus of our third event of the year. During an intimate dinner at Michelin-starred Muse by Tom Aikens in Belgravia, London, guests were treated to a vertical of the greatest-ever vintages (2005-2019) of Schrader’s top cuvée, Old Sparky, which all received perfect scores. These 100-point wines – all from magnum – were expertly paired by one of the UK’s most talented chefs.  Esteemed Master Sommelier Jason Smith expertly guided us through Schrader’s best vineyards and terroirs before enthralling us with tales of six vintages that have become some of the estate’s most coveted and rarest wines. While tasting these exceptional vintages at the gorgeous two-storey Belgravia townhouse, Aikens hand-served and enthralled guests with the seven courses he had prepared for the evening. This was an exploration of one of the world’s most decorated and mythical wines which showcased Napa Cabernet at its very best. Full line-up: Champagne Henri Giraud, Fût de Chêne MV10 (in magnum) 2019 Robert Mondavi, To Kalon Vineyard Fumé Blanc Reserve 2019, 2018, 2013, 2012, 2007, 2005 Schrader Cellars, Old Sparky, Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon The Pernots of Puligny  In April, two young Puligny-Montrachet visionaries, Alvina Pernot and Philippe Abadie, took centre stage at hallowed London culinary establishment, The Connaught. During a remarkable five-course meal, prepared by Hélène Darroze’s three-Michelin-star team to complement the 23 wines on show, guests enjoyed a mini vertical tasting of La Rue aux Vaches, followed by a selection of Premiers and Grands Crus from Alvina’s grandfather’s estate Domaine Paul Pernot and her own eponymous fledgling property. Following a tasting flight (2021-2018) of Alvina Pernot’s Rue aux Vaches vineyard – bottled exclusively in magnum – guests were then served five mini verticals of Domaine Paul Pernot’s Folatières, and Grand Crus Bienvenues-Bâtard and Bâtard-Montrachet from the family’s cool cellars in Puligny. The supremely talented husband-and-wife winemaking duo joined us on the night to offer insight into these special vineyards and wines, and the contrasting styles of the two properties. It was a true exploration of Pernot, a key and treasured partner for FINE+RARE, across many of their greatest wines.  Full line-up:  2021, 2020, 2019, 2018 Puligny-Montrachet, La Rue aux Vaches, Alvina Pernot (in magnum) 2020 Bâtard-Montrachet, Grand Cru, Alvina Pernot 2020 Puligny-Montrachet, Premier Cru, Clos des Folatières, Alvina Pernot 2018 Puligny-Montrachet, Premier Cru, Les Folatières, Alvina Pernot (in magnum) 2017, 2016, 2012, 2009 Puligny-Montrachet, Premier Cru, Clos des Folatières, Domaine Paul Pernot 2006, 2001, 1999, 1996 Puligny-Montrachet, Premier Cru, Folatières, Domaine Paul Pernot 2017, 2013, 2011, 1996 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet, Grand Cru, Domaine Paul Pernot 2017, 2010, 1999, 1988 Bâtard-Montrachet, Grand Cru, Domaine Paul Pernot Ch. Lafite Rothschild through the ages A landmark event of the year, Ch. Lafite Rothschild through the ages was the first experience we held in UK held outside London. Waddesdon Manor in Aylesbury was the natural choice for the occasion because of its iconic grandeur – and connection with the Rothschild family. Following a Champagne reception in Waddesdon Manor’s private gardens on a balmy summer evening, guests sat down to an enviable six-course dinner accompanied by an incredible flight of ex-château back vintages of Ch. Lafite Rothschild, from 1960 to 2010, and two beautifully mature magnums from Lafite’s sibling estate, Ch. Duhart-Milon. Domaines Barons de Rothschild International Director Jean-Sébastien Philippe joined us for this remarkable journey exploring one of Bordeaux’s most renowned First Growth châteaux before we retreated to the charming, characterful Five Arrows Hotel located a stone’s throw from Waddesdon Manor. Full line-up: 2019 Ch. Rieussec 2010, 2005, 1990, 1982, 1960 Ch. Lafite Rothschild 1990, 1976 Ch. Duhart-Milon (in magnum) Exploring Ch. d’Yquem and Ch. Cheval Blanc In June, we held our first event that included a magnificent overnight stay outside the UK in the historic wine-producing region of Bordeaux. Over the course of two wonderful days, guests walked among the vines and cellars of two iconic estates – Ch. d'Yquem and Cheval Blanc. Two of the region’s most respected winemakers, Pierre Lurton and Pierre-Olivier de Clouet, joined us as we explored these highly coveted estates through private vineyard and cellar tours, incredible culinary experiences at both properties and superlative flights of ex-château vintages.  Following a lunch and tasting at Ch. d’Yquem – including magical vintages dating back to 1939 – and a 14-flight Cheval Blanc dinner, guests settled into the breathtakingly beautiful five-star Château Hôtel Grand Barrail for the night, located a short distance from the neighbouring medieval town of Saint-Emilion and some of the world’s most coveted fine wine producers. The wines, company and setting were truly magnificent and we all walked away from the experience with a greater appreciation for the two wine estates. Full line-up: 2016 "Y" de Ch. d'Yquem 2020, 2009, 2005, 1990, 1961, 1959, 1939 Ch. d’Yquem 2020 Le Petit Cheval Blanc 2020 Le Petit Cheval  2015, 2011, 2010, 2009, 2000, 1998, 1990, 1982, 1966, 1964, 1961 and 1939 Ch. Cheval Blanc Ch. Belle-Brise: discovering the walled garden of Pomerol Our penultimate event of 2023 was a first for our experiences programme – a dinner in the United States hosted by our US arm, Vinfolio.  In November, an intimate group of guests gathered at three-Michelin-star SingleThread in Healdsburg (Sonoma County, California), to celebrate FINE+RARE favourite Ch. Belle-Brise.  Over the course of the evening, the small group were fortunate enough to taste a 23-vintage flight of Belle-Brise dating all the way back to the first commercial release in 1993. All those in attendance were gifted the rare opportunity to unravel the golden thread that connects each vintage from this special Pomerol estate. As Scott Turnbull MS – Vinfolio Director of Private Clients – explains in his Editorial piece about the night, elegance and finesse were the common themes at one of the largest Ch. Belle-Brise retrospective tastings ever held.  Host for the evening, Turnbull, shared stories from the estate’s short but mighty history, including the château’s ability to overcome adversity in its first few commercially released vintages to produce what is, for many, a desert-island wine. Special thanks to the supremely talented SingleThread team for preparing an exquisite kaiseki-influenced Japanese menu that gave the little-known, yet much-loved Pomerol property an incredible stage to demonstrate its silken and opulent wine’s almost weightless power.  Full line-up: Champagne Robert Moncuit, Les Grands Blancs, Blanc de Blancs 2002-2020, 2000, 1999, 1995, 1994 and 1993 Ch. Belle-Brise, Pomerol 1982 Bas Armagnac, La Fontaine de Coincy (45%) Read more about the event. Two decades of Roumier’s Bonnes-Mares with William Kelley Our 2023 events calendar drew to a close in spectacular fashion with a superlative showcase of 20 vintages of one of the most legendary bottlings on the fine wine landscape, Domaine Georges Roumier’s Bonnes-Mares. An international group of collectors and wine enthusiasts from the Czech Republic, Mallorca, Geneva, San Francisco, London and Burgundy (in the form of the evening’s compère, acclaimed Burgundy authority Wine Advocate’s William Kelley) gathered on an autumnal night at London’s prestigious Connaught Hotel for an exploration like no other.  Following a Champagne reception, five incredible courses prepared by Hélène Darroze’s expert culinary team were served. Each one was designed to complement the stunning wines from two remarkable decades (2000)-2020) in the estate’s history. Throughout the evening, Kelley provided fascinating insight on each flight and vintage, bringing the wines to life for all those present. It was a truly memorable occasion, gathering to taste a flight of wines we are unlikely to have the opportunity to encounter again any time soon. Full line-up:  Champagne Henri Giraud, MV10 2000-2020 Bonnes Mares, Domaine Georges Roumier Find out more about our events and experiences or register interest in future events

As we’re putting the finishing touches on this year’s events calendar, we look back at 2023’s dinners and tastings – with highlights including verticals of Roumier, Le Pin, Ausone and more

A round-up of some of the best events we hosted in 2023 – including verticals of Roumier, Le Pin, Ausone and more

Looking back at our 2023 events

The history of Piedmont as a fine wine region and the establishment of Nebbiolo as a single-varietal wine predates the unification of Italy. Yet the region’s rise to international fame as Italy’s finest wine was intrinsically linked to the political role that the Piedmont Kingdom played in the unification of Italy. Nebbiolo as Italy’s first single-varietal wine The decision to move away from the generic field blends more typical of wine production in Italy at the time, to a single varietal Nebbiolo, was the first step towards Barolo gaining prominence. This decision also came about through aristocratic influence by the Piedmont nobility at the height of its power, prior to the unification of Italy in 1861. In the 1830s the Marchesi de Barolo married a French aristocrat who as part of her entourage brought with her a talented French oenologist, who after experimenting with many French varietals in the region quickly identified the potential of the indigenous Nebbiolo as a potential single varietal superstar! This French oenologist started to produce single-varietal Nebbiolo on the Marchesi de Barolo’s vineyards and it wasn’t long before the wines gained a reputation amongst the aristocratic classes. The King of Piedmont contacted the Marchesi requesting to taste this wine made from just Nebbiolo that everyone was talking about. The King became a huge fan of the wines and it wasn’t long before the Marchesi was sending 365 barrels of Nebbiolo
to the King for him and his courts to enjoy throughout the year. From then on Nebbiolo as a single varietal had begun to secure its place in fine wine history. The establishment of Barolo It wasn’t long before the King purchased his own wine estate in Barolo, which now exists under the ownership of Frescabaldi. The Piedmont kingdom was the conquering force in the unification of Italy along with the help of the French army that finally conquered the Spanish rule of Sicily and southern Italy and eventually Rome leaving just the Vatican and the Pope isolated from the rest of the newly
declared unified state of Italy in 1861. Amazingly there was no diplomatic relationship between the Vatican State and the Italian government until Mussolini reached out to them in 1932. The power of the Piedmont kingdom and its role in the unification of Italy meant that Barolo retained its status with the aristocratic elites of Italy and beyond and became known as the premium wine-producing region of the newly declared country. Its prominence and reputation remained ever since. The Barolo region became renowned throughout the country and Nebbiolo took its crown as the king of Italian wine. Barolo following the unification became more and more established with merchants moving in to seize the opportunity of this prestigious and unique Italian wine. At this time, apart from the noble families (Marchesi Di Barolo, Rinaldi, Bourgogno) all the
rest of the Barolo wines were bottled in Alba under merchant’s labels. Alba, much like Bordeaux, became a thriving merchants hub and the wine began to be exported overseas. Barbaresco: the unfortunate struggling sibling to Barolo History is full of cruel twists and the development of Barbaresco for much of the 19th and 20th centuries was a struggle for survival, unlike their more established neighbour Barolo - with its royal seal of approval. Today Barbaresco is being seen very much as Barolo’s equal but its survival is in no doubt down to two central figures of the region Gaja and the Produttori Di Barbaresco. 
The history of Gaja of Barbaresco The history of Gaja is extraordinary and singular in its rise to fame in the region and is a testament to the foresight of Giovanni Gaja and his son and French wife Clothide Rey. The Gaja family were not nobility but farmers, yet they became the first to bottle their own wine in Barbaresco in 1859. This became possible because the family owned a small tavern in the town which catered for the merchants that passed through Barbaresco as it was an active Port, distributing goods. At the tavern, the Gaja family used to make their wine and serve them from jars at the restaurant. At that time all other growers would sell their grapes to merchants in Alba to make wine.  Buoyed by the income of selling their own wines at their tavern Giovanni Gaja in 1859 then decided to bottle his best barrels in bottle (at this time this was often a blend of vintages). But these became the first Barbarescos ever to be bottled as Barbaresco. The family became further governed by quality when Angelo Gaja and his wife Clothide Rey took over from
his father. Their qualitative approach philosophy in a region that at the time was so underdeveloped is extraordinary. The family’s motto – fair, savoir faire, savoir faire faire et faire saviour (Work, knowledge, motivating others to work and passing on knowledge) has not faltered right up until today.  1958 was an important date for the Gaja family because this was recognised in Barolo as a fantastic vintage and it became the first vintage of Barolo to sell for over a 1,000 lira a bottle. The average price at the time for the best producers (such as Renato Ratti) was closer to 300 lira. This 1,000 lira price tag therefore became a big deal and was the beginning of Barolo
becoming recognised internationally as one of the world’s finest and most expensive wines. Yet despite this high price tag of Barolo, Giovanni Gaja was selling his current Barbaresco release at this time for 1,200 lira! This just showed the Barbaresco from Gaja even in those early days was outpricing the best wines of Barolo. The history of the Produttori del Barberesco The history of Barbaresco outside of the extraordinary success of Gaja was a lot less smooth. Through this period the region remained largely unknown for wine production despite successfully growing Nebbiolo like its neighbour Barolo and being home to the region’s best producer Gaja. However, there is another unique and profound development that took place in Barbaresco that also has shaped the region as one of Italy’s finest wine-producing regions for single varietal Nebbiolo that unlike Barolo did not rely on the aristocratic influence for its rise to fame. If anything, Barbaresco’s rise to fame, including Gaja’s development was the success of the
workers of the land rather than nobility. This came in the form of the socialist collective that started to bottle its own wine in Barbaresco under the Produttori Di Barberesco label.  Speaking with Aldo Vacca, today’s chief winemaker at the co-op it was a man called Dominizio Cavazza who was become known as the Father of Barbaresco. He moved to the region when he got a job working as the Director of the Wine School of Alba in 1890.  He immediately saw the potential of Barbaresco as a fine wine region and whilst he had no land, he knew if he could persuade the small landowners to compile their crops, he could make a fine wine that they could bottle and sell themselves rather than selling their crop to
the Alba merchants. By 1894 he had managed to persuade five farmers and two
landowners to contribute the crop and the cooperative was formed. At this time socialism was taking hold in many parts of Europe enabling small landowners to work together to enable them to manage their own produce without relying on the aristocratic landowners. Prior to the Bolshevik revolution in Russia in 1917, these socialist projects in Western Europe were seen as a very positive social development and was transforming the social structure across the region. Initially Cavazza believed that Barbaresco should be incorporated as part of the Barolo District but as Barolo by this time was already well established, thanks to its aristocratic ties, the Barolo producers had no interest in extending their boundaries. This decision in itself was to have a devastating impact on Barbaresco for the next 50 years. Whilst the cooperative became very successful in the early years, the First World War followed by economic hardship and the rise of fascism in Italy which actively shut down cooperatives in Europe, saw the Produttori cease to exist.  It wasn’t until 1954 that the co-operative project was reborn by the local priest – Don Fiorino, who on moving to the region heard about the early success of Cavazza and wanted to rekindle this success. For the priest the cooperative was essential in the survival of the local community that unlike Barolo was decimated by poverty and hardship through the first half of the 20th century. The 1950s saw the industrial boom in Italian cities which saw huge swathes of the countryside deserted as young men and women flocked to the cities for better wages in the automobile and other industries. To encourage people to stay in Barbaresco, Don Fiorino reopened the cooperative promising any landowners who joined him that they would be given fair and
reliable income if they stayed and worked the land. Dom Fiorino’s foresight was to be commended as ever since it opened the co-op has gone from strength to strength. Similar to Gaja, it is due to a strict qualitative approach that has meant this co-op is today producing arguably the world’s finished wines from a cooperative. These days, thanks to Gaja and Produttori, Barbaresco is producing some of Italy’s finest wines. Explore more Editorial 

We look back at the rise of Barolo and its neighbouring sibling Barbaresco's less fortunate, rocky road to fortune.


The historic rise of Nebbiolo

Louis XIII has been adored by dignitaries, royalty and the glitterati throughout its near 150-year history. Everything about it, from the grapes to the glass, is of the highest quality. It has been present at some of the most momentous occasions in modern history – served at European royal courts, poured on the maiden voyage of the SS Normandie and Concorde, and quaffed by Agatha Christie on the Orient Express. It has been a favourite of Prime Ministers and dabbed on the wrists of fashion icon Coco Chanel. So what is it about this Cognac that has captured the hearts and minds of so many influential people throughout history? Working from the outside in, Louis XIII is housed in an instantly recognisable Baccarat crystal decanter. Each one is crafted by hand and no two are the same. It comes in a number of formats, from the miniature 5cl to the six-litre Mathusalem. Few bottles look as exquisite or capture the light like the spiked vessel that wouldn’t look out of place in a gallery. The decanter is fashioned after a carafe that was unearthed on a 16th century battleground. Rémy Martin founder Paul-Emile Rémy Martin decided to model his Cognac bottle on the one that was exhumed because he was so taken with the design. This was quite a radical move at the time as Cognac was historically sold by the barrel. The decision paid off as the decanter has since become an international standard for quality and many have attempted to mimic its design. There are numerous nods to history and Louis XIII’s royal namesake on the handblown decanter, including the 20-carat gold neck and handmade fleur-de-lis stopper. It takes a minimum two weeks’ craftmanship to produce a single decanter. This, however, is a mere fraction of the time it takes to produce the remarkable liquid within. Only the finest grapes from the Grande Champagne region are selected to one day become Louis XIII. Each decanter contains approximately 1,200 eaux de vie, distilled on lees, and aged for up to 100 years in traditional Limousin oak casks called tierçons that are over one century old. It’s no exaggeration to say Louis XIII is the work of a Cellar Master’s lifetime. Baptiste Loiseau became only the seventh person to hold the role – and the youngest in the Cognac house’s history – when he took up the mantle in 2014, at just 34 years of age. Despite all the advancements that have occurred throughout Rémy Martin’s history, it is no easier today than it was all those centuries ago for the Cellar Master to know if the decisions he or she makes will affect Louis XIII’s end taste profile. It is Loiseau’s role to ensure these aromas are the same in a century’s time – something that is becoming ever-more difficult in a changing climate with tools that are disappearing before his very eyes. The tierçons, named as such because Rémy Martin’s Cognac used to be transported in barrels of three on a horse-drawn carriage, are crucial to the history and taste profile of Louis XIII. There are tierçons in the depths of the Rémy Martin cellar that date back to 1744 – 20 years after Martin started producing Cognac under his own name. For a long time, the art of coopering these 550-litre tierçons was lost to the ages, as none was produced after 1917. This has become increasingly problematic over the past 20 years as the number of tierçons started to dwindle as one is sacrificed when another needs repairing. In 2012, then Cellar Master Pierrette Trichet made the bold decision to start this age-old tierçon coopering practice again, for fear there might not be any left for generations to come. This project to resurrect the art and safeguard the future of Louis XIII took years to master. The Rémy Martin team enlisted the help of various experts in their field to recreate a tierçon that was faithful to the ones produced in the 18th century. A tierçon must be made from a Limousin oak tree that is up to 180 years old. Once felled, the oak needs to be split and air-dried for a minimum of three years. The new tierçon is then filled with new eaux de vie to mature before it is ready to be filled with the eaux de vie that is one day destined to become Louis XIII. Even after creating countless prototypes, it’s impossible to know exactly how the resulting liquid will taste when it’s ready to bottle in almost a century’s time. From the grapes, to the maturation vessels, and decanter, everything about Louis XIII is rich in history and savoir faire. The world around might change, but there is some comfort in knowing that the "king of Cognacs" in your decanter – or better yet, rocks glass – is as fine as the liquid dabbed on the wrists of Coco Chanel and imbibed by the statesmen and dignitaries of their respective times. Browse all Cognac listings or read more Editorial 

Louis XIII is one of those spirits that almost transcends its own category – and rightly so. It has everything: the history, the provenance and exceptional quality. Holly Motion explores the fascinating history of the "king of Cognacs"

Learn the incredible story of Louis XIII, the king of Cognacs. A liquid of uncompromising quality, adored by dignitaries, royalty and the glitterati.

The history of Louis XIII, the king of Cognacs

Louis XIII: the making of an icon

Remy Gauthier

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Prima di richiedere la consegna, puoi modificare la quantità per ciascun articolo nella tua selezione qui sotto.

*Il prezzo di mercato è dinamico e può variare. Al momento della vendita, dal prezzo finale sarà detratta una commissione di negoziazione del 10%.

Prezzo di mercato totale*

Il prezzo fisso personalizzato al quale desideri vendere ciascun articolo.

Dividi in {caseSize} singole bottiglie da {bottleSize}cl.

Titolo

mostra tutti gli articoli che attualmente conservi con noi. Questi articoli possono essere venduti.

Disponibili per la vendita — gli articoli conservati con {name} sono idonei per essere inseriti nel marketplace.

Profilo

Questo articolo si trova presso FINE+RARE.

Questo articolo si trova presso FINE+RARE HOME Hong Kong, ed è disponibile per la consegna o il ritiro in sede. La maggior parte delle consegne a Hong Kong può essere effettuata entro 3 giorni lavorativi; la data esatta sarà comunicata al momento dell'organizzazione della consegna. Le consegne internazionali richiedono tempi più lunghi, ti preghiamo di contattarci per maggiori dettagli.

I vini venduti en primeur saranno rilasciati dal produttore dopo limbottigliamento, tipicamente 18 mesi dopo la fine della cosiddetta campagna. Il tuo vino sarà poi conservato da FINE+RARE in un deposito doganale fino a quando deciderai di richiederne la consegna.

Ci riforniremo di questo articolo al prezzo garantito dalla nostra rete di fornitori e organizzeremo una spedizione rapida a FINE+RARE.
 I tempi di consegna dipendono da molte variabili, ma in genere per un approvvigionamento rapido sono 2-4 settimane.
 Una volta confermato l'ordine, ti terremo aggiornato sulla data di arrivo prevista.
 Ogni articolo viene controllato all'arrivo dal nostro team di esperti e le fotografie sono disponibili su richiesta (si prega di notare che potrebbero essere applicati dei costi).

Reperiremo questo articolo attraverso la nostra rete di fornitori e ne organizzeremo la spedizione a FINE+RARE.
 I tempi di consegna dipendono da molte variabili, ma una stima media è di 6-12 settimane.
 Una volta confermato lordine, ti terremo aggiornato sulla data di arrivo prevista.
 Ogni articolo viene controllato al momento della ricezione dal nostro team di esperti, con fotografie disponibili su richiesta (si prega di notare che potrebbero essere applicati dei costi).

Remy Gauthier

Filtro

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