2003 Mommessin - Clos de Tart (Cuvee 7)

The 2003 Clos de Tart Grand Cru suffered less grillure than other vineyards in the Côte d'Or; around 25% of the vines were affected. This was picked at 21hl/ha from September 2, two weeks earlier than the 1976. It has a deep, refulgent hue. Unsurprisingly, it is hedonistic on the nose; notable glycerin lacquers the macerated dark black cherries, cassis and pastille-like strawberry fruit. With aeration, a kirsch-like element develops, accompanied by a hint of iodine. The 2003 is conspicuously sweet on the entry, with saturated ripe tannins, and very supple in the mouth, but my main gripe is that it does not build toward the finish. There is something a little static about the 2003 now, at 15 years of age. Will it ever blossom into something more? Tasted at the Clos de Tart vertical at Ten Trinity in London.

Tasted at the pre-dinner vertical to mark Sylvain Pitiot's retirement from the domaine, the 2003 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is deep in color. The nose reflects the warm summer...to a degree. Sappy black fruit, a hint of licorice and balsamic, it is a little withdrawn to my surprise and despite rigorous aeration. The palate is rich and exotic, plenty of licorice in the mouth, quite gamey and very spicy towards the finish. In the context of this vertical tasting, it does not articulate the terroir in this vintage, despite Sylvain's best efforts - a grand cru that burned brightly in its youth, but eventually succumbed to imprint of that growing season.

Even darker than the 2005 – dark purplish crimson. Lightly tarry nose, not as opulent and fruity as the 2005. Sweet start, and then distinctly brûlée and a little weak on the finish. Not opulent. And rather drying tannins on the finish. A little light on the end. Rather a fast fade. Doesn't quite hang together. Picked very late compared with their neighbours, apparently. (JR)