1988 CHATEAU PICHON LONGUEVILLE COMTESSE DE LA LANDE

The 1988 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is in a perfect place at the moment. It has a classic nose of tobacco, brine and black fruit. It's more austere than the 1989 yet just as compelling. The aromatics seem to gain harmony in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. This example is perhaps the most elegant I have tasted. Morels, cedar and leather notes combine beautifully and lead to a tender finish that you could argue misses a bit of length. But it is utterly charming. Poured blind at the château.

The 1988 Pichon Lalande has a fragrant, woodland, earthy, pinecone-tinged bouquet, a little rustic in style but charming, maybe a little ephemeral compared to other vintages. The palate is well balanced with fine boned tannin, crisp acidity but the fruit seems to have ebbed away in recent years. This just seems to have faded in recent years and I would be tempted to consume this in the near future. Tasted at the château.

Described by someone next to me as 'always the bridesmaid, a cold-bath wine'. Proper, old-fashioned bordeaux nose ('those were the days when they had a lot of Cab Franc in the blend'). Scented, pencils, light and understated. Neat tannins tucked in. Slightly mouldy, senescent-leaf flavour which became more and more pronounced – probably very light TCA. (TC)