2019 Clos st Denis 1,5l Georges Lignier

Expressive and perfumed, it nevertheless has power – a concentrated mouthful of dark, brooding fruit, cut by the year’s trademark acidity and a mineral freshness. If you can resist the temptation of its early allure, lay it down and forget about it for a decade. As with most 2019s, this Grand Cru is alluring – a sensuous nose, with a lick of vanilla from the new oak (40%). But behind that enticing nose is a powerful wine, intense and mouth-filling, with dark, brooding bramble fruit. There’s no heaviness here, though, with juicy acidity, a thread of fresh minerality and supple, fine-grained tannins. The 30% whole-bunch seems to have added a particularly moreish character, with an irresistible saline twist on the long finish. Put this to one side for at least five – ideally 10 – years before broaching the case.