2006 Domaine Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée En Orveaux 1er Cru

Like so many 2006s now, this has a winning tenderness and core of fruit that, despite the underlying structure, makes it impossible not to enjoy already. Expertly layered flavours, no hard edges. A black cherry/floral style quite different from spicy neighbouring Échezeaux. (AH)

Lightly-cooked cherry and plum are alluringly tinged with nutmeg and bitter-sweet iris florality on the nose of the Cathiard 2006 Vosne-Romanee En Orveaux, then migrate to a polished palate and inform a generous, lingering finish in which hints of vanilla and resin from barrel are harmoniously intertwined with the wine's naturally sweet spiciness and florality. This shows real elegance, and the subtle suggestion of things mineral that emerges as it opens to the air point the way toward future complexity. I would expect it to be worth following for at least 6-8 years. My report in issue 171 was in error – as both Cathiard and de Montille let me know – in reporting that Cathiard's production of wine from this cru would drop dramatically in consequence of his having agreed to compensation for relinquishing his lease on a share of its acreage. In fact, the portion of Malconsorts that Cathiard farmed under that former agreement never informed his domaine bottling, whose production level will thus be uninfluenced by its absence. Sylvain Cathiard said sorting out rot was not a major challenge for him in 2006 (but in 2007, yes) and that at most 10% of fruit was rejected. Unfortunately, he did not offer me the opportunity to taste half of his wines and I was unable to catch up with them subsequently. A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70

Sweet, perfumed. Very sweet fruit, Lush and luscious. Seductive with quite a bit of acidity. Reverberant. (JR)