2022 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchere 1er Cru
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The Boillot family has owned the monopole vineyard Clos de la Mouchère for over 80 years – and this, the 2022 vintage, was the 39th vinified by Henri Boillot. He considers it the standard-bearer for the domaine and one that it is both an honour and pleasure to work with. “This vineyard and I are an old couple,” he says. The four-hectare walled site sits within Les Perrières, facing southeast on limestone and clay soils, and generally produces a particularly honeyed expression of the mineral site. In 2022, Boillot and his team started picking in late August, with chilling the fruit a key element for the vintage. He compares the vintage to 2020, feeling the wines are both balanced and age-worthy – and Clos de la Mouchère is singing. Aged in 75% new oak, this offers a real contrast to Les Pucelles. Boillot’s monopole Clos de la Mouchère has a richness that is instantly evident. There’s pronounced minerality but a different depth of fruit. The palate is dense and powerful, tightly wound with ripe yet vibrant fruit – peach, almost Alphonso mango at the core, with zesty lemon peel that fills the mouth. Chalky notes complement the fruit, while there’s a hint of honey on the long finish. Superb.
Punteggi della critica
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Allen Meadows, Burghound
Altre recensioni e punteggi
In 2022 a better allocation than in the frosted 2021 vintage, Charles Lea of Lea & Sandeman tells me, as was the case with many domaines and many importers. Cask sample. Extremely well-judged hint of struck match to accompany the spice of the oak and the tart tang of the citrus. Intense, mouth-watering. Drive, length and precision. But it is very expensive. (JH)