2008 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru 0,75 l Comte de Vogue

The 2008 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (from young vines in Musigny) is a powerful, inward wine. There is lovely depth to the fruit, but the wine remains tightly coiled at this stage, even if occasional glimmers of richness emerge over time. Cloves, cinnamon and a host of other spiced notes add complexity on the finish. This is another superb, textured wine from de Vogue. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028. A brilliant career as a wine writer awaits long-time oenologist Francois Millet should he ever tire of making wine. Millet’s visual descriptions of vintages and wines are among the most colorful I have ever encountered. The truth is that these wines need no words at all; the quality of what is in the glass speaks for itself far more eloquently than words ever could. De Vogue’s 2009s are remarkable for their textural richness, depth and pure breed. In 2009 Millet started picking on September 9 in order to keep as much as freshness as possible. The fruit was 100% destemmed. New oak ranged from 15% for the Chambolle villages to 35-40% for the Bonnes Mares and Musigny Vieilles Vignes. The malos were on the slow side and for the most part did not begin until April 2010. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2009 Chambolle-Musigny and Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru and as they were bottled just prior to my visit. I did have a chance to taste most of the 2008s. In many ways the 2008s offer better balance than the 2009s because the vintage characteristics play off the house style of textural richness, resulting in marvelous, totally complete wines. In 2008 the harvest began on September 27, quite a bit later than in 2009. A cool growing season was saved by perfect conditions that began on September 13 and continued through to the end of the harvest. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Atlanta Wholesale Wines, Atlanta, GA; tel. (404) 696-9440; C’Est Vin, District of Columbia; tel. (703) 243-3559

Bright medium red. Higher-toned on the nose than the village wine, offering aromas of cherry, raspberry, spices and mint, lifted by menthol and anise. Suave and silky but youthfully tight, with its sweet fruit under wraps today. A piquant element of orange zest gives the firmly tannic finish a distinctly bracing quality. This is made from young vines in Musigny.

Classic ruby. An elegant and still restrained nose features pure and high-toned red pinot fruit, stone and a hint of spice that gives way to gorgeously detailed, precise and energetic medium-bodied flavors that possess a textured mouth feel that sweeps into a focused and sappy finish of controlled power and mild austerity. In sum, this is a highly intense wine of finesse. Jan 2011, www.burghound.com, Drink: 2018+