2020 Chateau Siran Margaux

The 2020 Siran has a lovely nose, very complex for its class, with mineral-driven black fruit and impressive delineation and focus. There is just a little reduction at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with chalky tannins, fine balance and a grippy, classically styled, cedar-tinged finish. Siran continues its fine run of form. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting.

Again, excellent quality, a little more closed at the moment than the 2019, but equally impressive, a ton of dark chocolate and liqourice, grilled cumin, cassis and blueberry fruit. Marjolaine Defrance technical director, Hubert de Boüard consulting. 35% new oak for ageing, harvest September 11 to October 3.

Full bottle 1,322 g. certified HVE. Inky, blackcurrant fruit and masses of black-tea-leaf, astringent tannins. Very dark, almost black, and tasting the way that night air tastes when you're walking between a freshly ploughed field and woodland. Fresh finish, although those tannins are verging on tough. (TC)