2020 Armand Rousseau Hospices Clos de la Roche

The 2020 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru wafts from the glass with aromas of sweet red berries, rose petals, raw coca, warm spices and orange rind. Medium to full-bodied, rich and concentrated, it's taut and vibrant, with a more tightly wound, reserved profile than the Mazy-Chambertin and Charmes-Chambertin.

The 2020 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru has a quintessential nose for this vineyard, quite flamboyant yet still with that Rousseau sense of control and elegance, a melange of red and black fruit, touches of wet stone and undergrowth. The palate is medium-bodied with a supple entry, fine weight and density, veering more towards the red fruit profile with a dash of black pepper on the finish. This was once the weak card in Rousseau's pack. That is the case no longer.

Cask sample. Dark cherry hue; the darkness of Morey in the fruit; dark black soft fruit and a brooding gravitas. Quite structured on the finish. (MH)