1996 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle

Certainly fully mature, the 1996 Hermitage La Chapelle offers a pretty, feminine, cooler climate style with high acidity yet still shows solid sweetness of fruit as well as concentration. Giving up lots of darker berry fruits as well as classic La Chapelle sweet herbs, smoked meats, saddle leather, and bacon fat, it hits the palate with medium-bodied richness, high yet still integrated acidity, beautiful balance, and outstanding length. A wine that needs 30-60 minutes in a decanter as it gains richness and depth with air, it's drinking at point today, with no upside, yet should hold nicely for another decade if properly stored. The 1991 certainly has a little more opulence, while the 1996 is defined by its acidity.

Coolish year. Lots of structure. The Jaboulets argued that 1996 was better than 1995. Very healthy deep crimson. Deeper than 1999 and 2004! Tangy, meaty nose. Fully evolved nose – almost as though there's some reduced Mourvèdre here. Very promising until the rather dried-out end. The best Jaboulet of these three reds but it cuts off a bit on the finish. (JR)