1998 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle

100% Syrah, 20% new oak. This pre-dates the acquisition of Jaboulet by the Freys. Rich, sautéed elderberries on the nose. Powerful and less austere and uncompromising than the Chapoutier but as though the fruit had been boiled out of the mid palate. Diffuse with acids pinching the finish. The tannins are still a little rustic. Leathery finish. It’s very good red wine but I don’t think it’s very good Hermitage. (JR)

Magnum. After Grange 1998, this seems very meek and mild. The fruit is dry and understated, with quite pinched acidity upsetting the balance. There's only very basic complexity. Not exactly the most exciting bottle. (RH)

Certainly better than the 1999, the 1998 Hermitage La Chapelle is a beauty, offering mature notes of dark fruits, Asian spices, peppery herbs, and incense. It’s medium to full-bodied, beautifully concentrated, and flamboyantly textured, with terrific overall balance. It’s one of the standouts in the decade (following the 1990), and while fully mature, it should hold nicely going forward.