2005 Domaine Roty Marsannay Les Ouzeloy

The 2005 Marsannay En Ouzelois offers a gamey, black-fruited, spicy but at present somewhat reduced nose. A good shaking brought out depths of black cherry and purple plum, marrowy meatiness, black pepper, mineral salts and iodine. This admirably concentrated wine should (like the other best Marsannays here today) be an excellent candidate for 8-10 years of cellaring, but right now it is a bit hard to access or assess. Philippe Roty and his brother have matters well in hand and are on their way to bottling (as always here, unfiltered) a superb collection of 2005s. That said, this won’t even begin happening until late Spring and some wines may not be bottled until year’s end. (Wines followed above by the initials P.R. are from Philippe’s vines and will be labeled with his name.) Prolonged skin contact and gentle but relentless extraction are the practice here, and in 2005 that has made for Pinots of almost shockingly deep color, abundant and firm but fine tannins, and terrific overall intensity. Also recommended: 2005 Marsannay (85-86+?). Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173.

Good full ruby-red. Very reduced, unformed nose shows a pungent scent of crushed cassis. Densely packed and powerful but not hard, with flavors of blackberry, violet, licorice and spice. Finishes with substantial broad tannins and a repeating licorice note. This will need a good six or seven years of cellaring.