2006 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Extra Brut

Disgorged in 2015 with the customary dosage of 4.5 grams per liter, Philipponnat’s 2006 Clos des Goisses reveals a generous bouquet of ripe strawberry, pastry, pear and peach mingling with nuances of lemon confit. On the palate, it is full-bodied, broad-shouldered and textural, displaying a fleshy, expansive profile with a rich core of fruit, ripe yet vibrant acidity, a pillowy mousse and long, enveloping finish. While undeniably charming, it is also softer and more approachable than its successors—offering a more muscular interpretation of this historic vineyard site. One should not overlook the fact that 2006 ranks among the highest-yielding and lowest-acid vintages of the past quarter-century. That said, it will offer considerable pleasure to the fortunate few who own a bottle and are inclined to open it in the near term.

65% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay. Disgorged December 2015. Dosage 4.5 g/l. Firm straw colour. Really distinctive nose – rather minerally and intense. Soars out of the glass. The bead is just a little coarse and the wine positively screams for attention. Although the dosage is so low, the wine actually tastes quite rich, although it finishes very firmly and dry. A really personality-laden wine. A whole percentage point more potent than most. Kerpow! (JR)

The 2006 Clos des Goisses is stellar, but it is also going to need quite a bit of time to come into its own. Powerful and ample in the best of the Goisses style, the 2006 hits the palate with serious intensity. Orchard fruits, lemon oil, white flowers and almonds are some of the many notes that open up in the glass, but, as is often the case with young Goisses, it is the wine's gravitas that is front and center. Even with all of its overtness, though, the 2006 retains striking, crystalline purity. I imagine the 2006 will reward Champagne lovers with many decades of truly exceptional drinking. The only thing the 2006 needs is time. The question is: How much?