1986 Château Léoville Barton

As it closes in on its 40th birthday, the 1986 Léoville Barton retains the appearance of a 10-year-old wine. Unwinding in the decanter and glass with aromas of blackcurrants, cedar box and loamy soil, it's medium to full-bodied, with a concentrated core of fruit, tangy acids and chalky tannins. The initial impression remains somewhat angular and uncompromising, but with aeration it rounds out nicely. I'd tend to rank this behind the immensely charming 1985, underrated 1988 and compelling 1989 but ahead of 1983 and 1982 in the 1980s sweepstakes at this address. Given a good cork, well-stored bottles will last another two decades.