2020 Vieux Chateau Certan, Pomerol 1,5 l

85 % Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc. Alexandre Thienpont thinks it’s like 1947! ‘ A striking contrast between a rainy winter and a long, dry and often hot summer … Early harvest with low yield of 30 hl/ha.’ No Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend this year because of drought. Harvest began 14 September. Deep purplish crimson – bluer than the 2019 – and almost out to the rim. Savoury and smart on the nose. Great vitality. A certain chew and inkiness but so glorious and such beauty! (JR)

The 2020 Vieux Château Certan was picked from September 14 at a low yield of 30hl/ha. The nose might be even better than the 2019 with blackberry, black truffle, pencil shavings and a touch of sous-bois . The aromatics are heavenly, perhaps even more complex than the 2016. The palate is medium-bodied with a satin-textured entry and fabulous delineation. This is a Pomerol whose engine purrs like a vintage Rolls Royce. Maybe the 2019 has a touch more edginess on the finish but this is the real deal. It's a sensational, multi-dimensional Pomerol for the ages. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium.

Tasted blind. Black core with purplish rim. More subdued on the nose than (what was later revealed to be) Petrus but still has lovely pure dark fruit. Silky-smooth tannins, so elegant and refined but with great persistence. I marked this up half a point on retasting. (JH)