2022 Morey St Denis 1er Cru Clos Sorbe AOC 1,5 l Domaine des Lambrays

Two plots totalling 1.25 ha in this climat just south of Clos Baulet and much bigger. 2022 was the first vintage after it was re-acquired by Clos des Lambrays after 41 years. Although only a narrow road separates it from Clos Baulet, the clay here is red clay rather than the brown clay of Clos Baulet. Both face east but Clos Sorbè has more of a slope. Vine age 35–50 years. 40% whole bunches. 17 months in 20% new oak. (Different producers vary in terms of the accent on the E.) Bright crimson. Much more reticent nose than Clos Baulet but it seems promising. Lighter, fresher nose than Clos Baulet but lots of fruit concentration, and tannin, on the palate. More complex than Clos Baulet. More refined and very long. ‘A little Clos des Lambrays’, according to Jacques Devauges. (JR)

Once again, the nose is cool, pure and airy while combining exuberantly spicy notes of the essence of red currant with hints of earth, violet and a whisper of wood toast. There is very good size, weight and richness to the concentrated middleweight plus flavors that possess a slightly finer texture thanks to the dense but fine-grained tannins supporting the impressively persistent and well-balanced finale. This is also worth checking out.

Red soils (as opposed to the brown soils across the path in Clos Baulet). 1.25 ha (3.09 acres). Tank sample. Mid-pale ruby. Deeper nose of raspberry and cassis. Richer fruit character and texture but very suave. Some heft and real Morey character. Complete and savoury with fine tannins. (MH)