2017 Riesling Kiedrich Gräfenberg Grosses Gewachs trocken. 0,75l Robert Weil
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The 2017 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Trocken GG is deep and refined on the saline and complex nose that shows perfectly ripe and elegant fruit intermingled with slate nuances. Very elegant and delicate on the palate, this is a rather light and filigreed Gräfenberg that starts developing maturity notes and doesn't have the structure of the following vintages. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in Kiedrich, August 2025.
Punteggi della critica
Jancis Robinson MW
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
Altre recensioni e punteggi
Smoky, stony and oily-fusil elements dominate already on the nose, as well as on a firm, full palate whose apple and grapefruit juiciness are piquantly pip-inflected. The gripping finish displays almost implosive concentration but also shares the corresponding Turmberg’s sense of severity due not just to borderline bitterness, but also to its strong sense of chalk suffusion and stony underpinnings. I realize that many knowledgeable observers – including Wilhelm Weil himself – associate this sort of severe concentration with longevity, but I prefer to temper my prognostication, concerned that past a decade in bottle a wine like this might become more austere and spare.
I tasted Weil's whole collection from the 2017 vintage and every wine was a winner, including this Grosses Gewächs. Despite its generous exhibition of fruit, it still manages to keep well-defined contours courtesy of an invigorating acidity. Possesses great structure and elegance. (MS)