2016 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru 'Les Baudes' 0,75 l Ghislaine Barthod

Bright, dark red; a bit less saturated than the Beaux-Bruns. Tight nose offers aromas of black fruits, menthol, licorice and black pepper, plus a piquant suggestion of blood orange. A bit more herbal and much more dominated by its structure than the Beaux-Bruns, showing a very primary quality as well as good saline minerality. Distinctly clenched today and showing little sweetness but there's very good energy and intensity here. Finishes with a firm spine of tannins and a slight dry edge. This is tough to judge today and clearly in an awkward phase of its evolution in barrel.

The 2016 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Baudes was reduced from five to three barrels this year. It still retains a pure and winsome bouquet with pure red cherries, crushed strawberry and rose petal aromas, more fruité developing in the glass (more than Aux Beaux Bruns). The palate is very detailed and precise, certainly mineral-driven with tangible tension. It feels linear, politely refusing to fan out or gain weight toward the finish. Conservative maybe, but noble in the circumstances.