2016 Riesling Kiedrich Gräfenberg Grosses Gewachs trocken. 0,75l Robert Weil

Pungent green herbs, a penetrating whiff of white pepper, and a suggestion of chalk dust render the fruity aspects of this wine’s aromatic performance – grapefruit, papaya, and Mirabelle – almost secondary. As usual, this bottling is bigger-boned, pithier and stonier in its underlying mineral characteristics than the corresponding Turmberg, but abundant glycerol and ripeness of fruit flavors assuage any tendency toward austerity or textural rusticity. The vibrant, multifarious finish here sizzles and grips – although I miss the mouthwatering salinity harbored by its Klosterberg and Turmberg counterparts.

RS 5 g/l, TA 7.8 g/l. More open and developed than most of the 2016s in this Riesling Night line-up, showing some tertiary creaminess as well as the spicy citrus. Tight, bright with orange zest. Good length but perhaps only moderate intensity on the mid palate. Makes up for it with mouth-watering persistence. (JH)

A multi-faceted fragrance embraces aromas of peach and apricot as well as some more exotic fruit, spicy and even smoky nuances. On the palate, quite taut, but nevertheless generous, fruit and minerality sharing the spoils. Not quite as opulent as 2015, but with greater elegance. (MS)