1997 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Durnsteiner Kellerberg Smaragd

Almost gaudy nose displaying muskmelon, pineapple and yellow plum all overlain even in the aroma by persistent, pungent pepper. Firm on entry but then enveloping. Fourteen-plus alcohol, massive glycerine and sheer ripeness give this wine of only one gram residual sugar a lovely sense of sweetness. Long, sweetly smoky finish carries massive fruit, spice and soil. A vinous tidal wave.