2005 Domaine Arnaud Ente Meursault La Seve du Clos

Pale yellow. Reticent but pure aromas and flavors of lemon drop, minerals and crushed stone. Concentrated, fresh, vibrant and quite tight, with terrific density and sappiness. Firm acids and superb mineral cut bring this wine's flavors to an even higher level of intensity. Coats the palate with powdered stone on the aftertaste. This is remarkable for village wine but then these vines in Ormeau are largely a century old (Ente told me has only started replacing missing vines in the last four years) and the yield in 2005 was just 25 hectoliters per hectare.

A selection from Ormeaux of 100 year-old vines which belong to Marie-Odile’s father, Thevenot. Very intense, so much so this is almost more like essence of Meursault than a Meursault. Exceptionally clean, clear-cut and transparent with enormous tension yet great depth of flavour too. Admirable attention to detail here, it seems. Should have a long drinking life. I can’t imagine myself giving 18 points to many village Meursaults…. (JR)

Nose suggests somewhat more exotic ripeness than the foregoing samples, with notes of smoke, clove and nuts. Powerful on the attack, then sweet, broad and chewy in the middle palate, with superripe peach and apricot flavors framed by harmonious acidity. Ultimately less open than the rest of these 2005s but ripe and stuffed with material.