1985 Château La Conseillante

The 1985 La Conseillante is a vintage that I have tasted on several occasions and certainly it represents one of the highpoints of that decade for the estate. As I noted in my Pomerol tome, its fleshiness has dissipated in recent years, yet it still remains well balanced and fresher than say, the 1986 or 1988. Often notes for its warm gravel scents on the nose, the palate is like warming your hands at a fireside hearth on a cold winter's day. It just gives you a glow, so much so that you overlook its shortcomings, perhaps a lack of complexity and precision. Tasted and served blind at a private dinner in Bordeaux.

76% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec. Harvested from 17-23 September. Yields 55 hl/ha. Fermented in stainless steel, fully temperature controlled and vatted for 28 days. 70% in new French oak barrels for 16 months. Tasted blind. Light, fully evolved nose with a hint of leafiness. On the palate pretty light and with the acidity definitely making its presence felt. Fruit fading. Full points for the bouquet but minus some for the fading palate. (JR)

The 1985 Château La Conseillante has long been one of my favorite vintages of this decade and this ex-château bottle, opened by co-proprietor Valmy Nicolas, did nothing to change that opinion. The nose is disarming with those gorgeous warm gravel scents infusing the melted red berry fruit. This is Pomerol through and through, fully mature yet still captivating. The palate is beautifully balanced with fine tannin, moderate depth, displaying that fleshiness and comeliness that the finest 1985 Pomerol wines possess. It is almost easy-drinking in nature, so much so that you almost miss its inherent complexity. At its peak now, if you own any bottles, enjoy them now, though larger formats will offer 10-15 years of pleasure. Tasted November 2015.