1979 Château Cheval Blanc***

My third bottle of 1979 Cheval Blanc confirms a rather run-of-the-mill Saint-Émilion. It’s now showing wide bricking on the rim, and the nose feels a little enervated and leathery, suggesting that the Cabernet did not achieve complete ripeness. The palate is medium-bodied with rustic tannin, and slightly harsh in the mouth, with an attenuated finish. Drink bottles sooner rather than later.

A healthy dark garnet color is followed by a rather lean, one-dimensional Cheval Blanc with notes of red and black fruits, mineral, and earth, but compactly built and monolithic. It will age nicely for another 10-12 years, but there is not a whole lot of positive evolution to be expected. Drink up. Last tasted, 12/02.

At one time elegant, lightweight, and pleasant, the 1979 Cheval Blanc continues to develop in an unexciting fashion. The color is light ruby with a watery edge. The nose offers minty, mineral, earthy, herbaceous aromas backed by some berry and coffee-scented fruit. Light and lacking substance, with a short, angular finish, this wine was more enjoyable several years ago. Drink it up. Last tasted, 5/93. Aug 1993, www.robertparker.com