2005 Château Trotanoy

A wine that famously takes its time to come around, and the colour remains robust ruby at 17 years old, with pale sunrise red around the edges. Still plenty of ripe and young berry fruit on the nose, followed by melted tannins and gently-smoked caramel - showcasing the generosity of Pomerol in a way that Trotanoy sometimes hides when young. Cigar box, Christmas spice, liqourice, edges of bitter black chocolate, tapenade, mocha and menthol, still building in power over the palate, on the precipe of tertiary truffle and rose petal flavours. Just so engaging. Last tasted a few years ago, and it has noticeably stepped into its tasting window. A wine that makes you smile, and immediately reach for another glass - and a friend to share it with. Owned by the Moueix family, and a moment at the property when they had introduced smaller tanks in the cellar, and more precision in harvesting with small baskets. 50% new oak.

The 2005 Trotanoy is still a very young wine. Even so, it has aged exquisitely, with all of the elements very nicely balanced. There is plenty of the tannic heft that is typical of this site, but the tannins are very well integrated into the wine's fabric. Cedar, dried flowers, iron red berry fruit, mocha and dark reddish-leaning fruit all open with time in the glass. The stress of the warm, dry vintage is felt in the wine's searing tannins. I would cellar the 2005 for at least a few years, and then give it a good decanting to help those tannins soften a bit. Tasted two times.