1998 Château La Mission Haut-Brion

Just a spectacular wine in every sense, the 1998 is now fully mature yet still youthful, with a vivid ruby hue and little in the way of any bricking. Offering a kaleidoscope-like nose of red and black currants, scorched earth, truffles, tobacco, lead pencil, and ample crushed stone-like minerality, this beauty hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a layered, multi-dimensional texture, sweet tannins, and a thrilling finish. It needs about an hour in a decanter, but this is magical juice, and the bottle was emptied in record time. Count yourself lucky if you have bottles and enjoy any time over the coming 20-30 years.

The 1998 La Mission Haut Brion is the standout of the Nineties. It shows more purity and exuberance than the 1996, featuring some sumptuous scents of black cherries, black olive, freshly rolled tobacco and hints of gravel, all wonderfully defined and quite precocious. The palate is likewise sweet and ripe, offering pliant tannins and layers of blackberry, blood orange, blueberry and tobacco. It tightens up toward the finish as if to say, I'm in for the long haul. Give it a couple of hours' decanting, or cellar it for longer if you wish. (NM)

The 1998 La Mission Haut-Brion is deep garnet-brick colored with a pretty perfume of potpourri, spice box, menthol, sandalwood, tobacco and new leather. The palate is medium-bodied and elegant with tons of fragrant layers, finishing with loads of mineral and tons of energy. Drink up to 2030.