2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Champeaux Premier Cru

Reduction knocks down the nose but there is fine freshness and richness to the suave and seductively textured flavors that are generously proportioned while displaying both good tension and balance on the impressively persistent finish where a hint of wood appears. This mineral-driven beauty is firm but balanced and should amply repay extended cellaring, indeed it will need at least 6 to 8 years first and reward up to 15 or so.

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Champeaux is one of the more reserved wines in the cellar, unfurling in the glass with notes of grilled meats, cherries, dark berries and rich soil tones. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with the density and fine-grained structure that is so typical of this premier cru, underpinned by succulent acids and concluding with a long, youthfully firm finish. This will be a prospect for sustained bottle age.

Next to Les Evocelles and Clos St-Jacques. 100% new oak, 60% whole bunch. He’s blowing lots of air into the sample through the thief as it’s a bit reduced. Won’t be bottled until March or April. Still a touch smokily reduced but it’s easy to see the fruit on the palate. Dark, savoury from the reduction but has dark fruit underneath. Very savoury at the moment. Firm, almost chalky, texture. Honest and chewy and packed with fruit. Embryonic. (JH)