2003 Château Rol Valentin

Made in a soft, but not over-ripe style, the deep ruby/plum-tinged 2003 reveals broad, sexy notes of vanilla, black cherry jam, dried herbs, and sweet currants. This fleshy, round, low acid, seductive, luscious effort will provide pleasure over the next decade. Only 1,250 cases were produced, and the 2003 tipped the scales at 13.5% alcohol.

Good medium ruby. Roasted black raspberry, coffee, violet, minerals and toasty new oak on the nose. Fat, sweet and high-toned, with almost pinot-like floral character. This is absorbing its oak more gracefully than most wines from this vintage. No shortage of energy. Very long finish features lush tannins that arrive late. This wine will go into bottle with alcohol close to 14% and a pH of 3.7. Prissette, who practices a very reductive elevage, told me this wine has been racked just once thus far. Very sexy juice, with the exotic quality of the year adding to the wine's appeal without taking it over the top.

Mid purplish crimson, Meaty nose with more layers than the rest. There is a depth that is lacking in the other St Emilions and a little dryness towards the end. I a good way! Dry and neat and savoury, well kept in check for the long term! Serious stuff. (JR)