2006 Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts 1er Cru

Boillot's 2006 Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts displays a distinct pungency of toasted nuts and grain I associate with this site; and offers cider-like apple fruit accented by salted, smoky, toasted hickory nuts, honey, and sassafras. Satisfyingly concentrated and long, this should be worth following for at least 3-4 years. Given that Jean-Marc Boillot declares his love for classic dry Alsace Riesling, it is perhaps not surprising that he chose to harvest in 2006 immediately after the ban de vendange, did so in a great hurry, and then took every measure he thought efficacious - from rapid pressing to early bottling - to preserve refreshment and clarity in his finish wines. All of Boillot's premier crus (vinified in around one third new barrels) - whether from his own or purchased grapes - represent old selection massale vines, clearly one source of this collection's success. Boillot considers his 2006s -longer, finer, and more precise- as well as more sleek and dynamic than his 2005s, observations at odds with those of many growers, but ones that my tasting bore out. Importers: A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70 and Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802