2000 Château Pichon Baron

70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. Aged 15 months in oak barrels (80% new). Brick colour. Aromatically fine but clearly evolved. Cedar notes with a leafy edge. Fruit still present but the grainy tannins do impose. Lacks a bit of precision. Holding up but probably as good as it will get. (JL)

This remains powerful at 21 years old, a lovely slice of well-aged Pauillac at an excellent moment to begin drinking. Soft curls of tobacco and liqourice, tannins remain muscular but softening into an embrace of the cassis and bilberry fruit. Not the same density as you will find in more recent years of Pichon Baron, but this is extremely well balanced, the finesse of fully aged Cabernet Sauvignon. Perhaps a little more evolved than many top Pauillacs from this vintage, with hints of the heat of the summer in the fig fruit character and the soft russet edging to the plum colour, but succulent and enticing. Last year with Jean-Michel Cazes as director, Jean-Rene Matignon technical director. 80% new oak.