2009 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots

The 2009 Chablis Bougros Cote Bougerots is made from a steep, south-facing parcel in Bougros. It shows fabulous intensity and depth in its round, generous fruit. This really fills out on the mid-palate and finish. The radiance of the fruit makes this one of the more approachable 2009 grand crus for near and mid-term drinking, although it may age quite a bit longer based on the sheer density of its fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. This is an impressive set of wines from William Fevre and winemaker Didier Seguier. The 2009 harvest began on September 14. Seguier claims the date of harvest has become increasingly important in recent years relative to the past, as warmer temperatures create a narrower window for optimal picking times. All of the wines at Fevre are partially fermented in oak, ranging from 5-10% for the entry-level wines up to 60-70% for the grand crus. Seguier prefers neutral barrels that are on average five years old. In general the entry-level wines are fermented with commercial yeasts, while the 1er and grand crus are fermented with indigenous yeasts. The wines spend four to six months in oak, and are then racked into steel for the completion of their elevage, which lasts about 15 months. The wines are aged on their lees with no batonnage throughout the entirety of this time. Approximately 80% of the estate’s 50 hectares are farmed biodynamically, including all of the 1er and grand crus. The 2009 and 2010 vintages were not kind to Fevre in terms of production. In 2009, insects with very selective appetites damaged 20+% of the crop, while in 2010 yields were down as much as 50% because of widespread shatter during flowering. As is the case throughout Chablis, the 2009s look to be wines built on fruit that are best-suited for early and mid-term drinking. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010s, a vintage Seguier describes as more classic, with acidities that are in line with the estate’s 2007s and 2008s. Fevre makes both a Domaine range and a Maison range. I have listed the wines separately for maximum clarity. Importer: Henriot Inc, New York, NY; tel. (212) 605 6706

Very pale green-tinged yellow. Aromatically exuberant nose projects lime oil, white pepper and white flowers. Unctuous and sweet, with good citrus energy but less dimension than I usually find in this cuvee --and less complex than the 2010 version. A rather powerful vin de plaisir that comes across as a tad phenolic today. The 2009 vintage may not have been ideal for this full south-facing parcel.

Creamy, soft, there’s plenty of wet stones, it's clearly Chablis but seems to lack the grand cru quality. (JH)