2018 Domaine Hubert Lamy Criots Bâtard-Montrachet Haute Densite

A candidate for the title of white wine of the vintage in Burgundy this year is Lamy's incredible 2018 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru Haute Densité. Unfurling in the glass with a profound bouquet of citrus oil, clear honey, fresh pastry, mandarin oil and dried white flowers, it's full-bodied, ineffably complete and multidimensional. Its caressingly satiny attack segues into a bottomless mid-palate that displays striking concentration without weight, framed by chalky dry extract. Long and resonant, this is a formidable achievement from a great vigneron at the peak of his powers.